Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [269]
To explore the other caves – Tham Mah (735m), Tham Kaew (474m) and Tham Nam (660m) – you can hire a guide with a pressurised gas lantern for 100B for up to five people. Local village ladies lead the guided tours and can point out the interior cave formations that have been named.
Local legend says this cave complex was the home of a reu·se (hermit) for a thousand years and that the sage was on such intimate terms with the deities that he convinced some tair·wá·dah (the Buddhist equivalent of angels) to create seven magic wonders inside the caverns: a stream flowing from the pedestal of a solid-gold Buddha; a storehouse of divine textiles; a mystical lake; a city of naga (mythical serpents); a sacred immortal elephant; and the hermit’s tomb. Such fantastical wonders are said to be much deeper inside the mountain, beyond the last of the illuminated caverns.
There is a temple complex outside the cavern, and a stream with huge carp and catfish you can feed. Vendors by the parking lot sell medicinal roots and herbs harvested in the nearby forests.
DOI CHIANG DAO
Part of the Doi Chiang Dao National Park, Doi Chiang Dao (also called Doi Luang) pokes into the heavens at 2195m above sea level. From the summit, reachable by a two-day hike, the views are spectacular. The southern side of the mountain is believed to be one of the most accessible spots in the world to see the giant nuthatch and Hume’s pheasant. Birdwatching and overnight treks can be arranged through local guesthouses.
If you just want to wander by yourself, continue to the end of the cave road to Samnak Song Tham Pha Plong (Tham Pha Plong Monastic Centre), where Buddhist monks sometimes meditate. A long, steep stairway leads up the mountain to a large chedi framed by forest and limestone cliffs.
Sleeping
Many of the guesthouses are spread out along the road leading to Tham Chiang Dao and enjoy a view of the mountain and butterfly-filled gardens.
Malee’s Nature Lovers Bungalows (0 1961 8387; r 300-1200B) Malee is something of a maven: she opened one of the first guesthouses in Chiang Dao and knows just about everyone and everything. There is a range of thatch-and-brick bungalows of varying prices and quality and an old-fashioned backpacker camaraderie.
Chiang Dao Rainbow (08 4803 8116; r 380-750B) The two recycled teak bungalows have four-poster beds, smart furniture, terraces that look out onto rice fields, a stream and dramatic views of Doi Chiang Dao. There are also cheaper rooms in the house at the back. It is run by an ex-Oxford professor and partner who organise tours of the area with an educational bent.
Nature Guest House (08 9955 9074; r 500-700B) Closer to town than the other guesthouses, this quiet place is set in a neat garden with mountain views. The A-frame wooden bungalows with terraces are simple yet stylish.
Chiang Dao Nest (08 6017 1985; www.chiangdao.com; r 695-995B; The Nest is the epicentre of Chiang Dao’s traveller scene. Its large garden setting contains basic A-frame bungalows and a convivial atmosphere thanks to the English-Thai owners. Book early as they are often full. Even if you don’t stay here, pop over for a meal at the award-winning restaurant.
Chiang Dao Nest 2 (0 5345 6242; www.chiangdao.com; r 695-995B; ) The overflow site for Chiang Dao Nest, this is a cluster of five bungalows about 600m past the cave turn-off on the left side of the road. The restaurant at Chiang Dao Nest 2 focuses on Thai cuisine.
Other recommended places:
Hobby Hut (08 0034 4153; r 250B) A new homestay project close to town; meals with the family are 55/85B for lunch/dinner.
Chiang Dao Hut (08 7208 1269; www.chiangdaohut.com; r 580B) Two wooden bungalows close to the road.
Eating
Chiang Dao has a lovely assortment of farm-fresh produce – mostly chemical free – thanks to the nearby royal agriculture projects.
Mon & Kurt Restaurant (dishes 40-280B) A fixture in Chiang Dao, this Thai-Western restaurant was