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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [292]

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Rooms are delightfully chic, some boasting bathrooms with super-inviting recessed tubs. A highlight is the two ‘Sweet Rooms’, which are decked out in a faux-Victorian motif that somehow successfully combines disparate decorative items such as an African mask and a rocking horse. The hotel is located about 2km outside the city centre but operates a shuttle downtown.

Wiang Inn (0 5371 1533; www.wianginn.com; 893 Th Phahonyothin; r 3296-3422B; ) The large, modern lobby sets the stage for this centrally located, business-class hotel. The rooms are well maintained and have a few Thai touches, although the cheaper rooms only have double beds. Low season rates differ significantly.

Legend of Chiang Rai (0 5391 0400; www.thelegend-chiangrai.com; 124/15 Moo 21, Th Kohloy; r 3900-5900B, villa 8100B; ) One of the few hotels in town to take advantage of a river location, this upscale resort feels like a traditional Lanna village. Rooms feel romantic and luxuriously understated with furniture in calming creams and rattan. Each has a pleasant outdoor sitting area, frosted glass for increased privacy and a cool, outdoor like bathroom with an oversized shower; villas have a small private pool. The riverside infinity pool and spa are the icing on the comfort-filled cake.

Le Meridien Chiang Rai Resort (0 5360 3333; www.lemeridien.com; 221/2 Moo 20, Th Kwaewai; r 6800-9800B, ste 15,500B; ) Chiang Rai’s newest upscale digs is located about 2km outside of the city centre on a beautiful stretch of the Kok River. Rooms are immense and decked out in greys, whites and blacks, and the compound includes two restaurants and an infinity pool, in addition to the usual amenities of a hotel this price.

Eating

The night market has a decent collection of food stalls offering snacks and meals, from deep-fried won tons to fresh fish. Choose a dish and sit at the nearby tables, or step inside one of several restaurants on and off Th Phahonyothin by the night market.

Paa Suk (no roman-script sign; 0 5375 2471; Th Sankhongnoi; dishes 10-25B; 8am-3pm Mon-Sat) This immensely popular third-generation restaurant specialises in the local dish kà·nm jeen nám ngée·o, a thin broth of pork or beef and tomatoes served over fresh rice noodles. The restaurant is located just past the first stop light on Th Sankhongnoi (the street is called Th Sathan Phayaban where it intersects with Th Phahonyothin) roughly opposite HI Saban-nga.

Somkhuan Khao Soi (no roman-script sign; Th Singkhlai; dishes 25B; 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) Friendly Mr Somkhuan sells Chiang Rai’s tastiest kôw soy, a curry noodle dish, from a basic street stall under two giant trees.

Rot Prasoet (Muslim food; Th Itsaraphap; dishes 25-50B; 7am-8pm) This Thai-Muslim restaurant next to the mosque on Th Itsaraphap dishes up delicious Thai-Muslim favourites, including kôw mòk gài, the Thai version of chicken biryani.

Loong It (Local Food; Th Wat Phranorn; dishes 30-60B; 8am-3pm) To eat like a local, look no further than this rustic but delicious northern-style food shack. There’s an English-language menu on the wall, but don’t miss the sublime lâhp gài, minced chicken fried with herbs and topped with crispy deep-fried shallots and garlic. The restaurant is on Th Phranorn near the intersection with the Superhighway; look for a sign that says ‘Local Food’.

Cham Cha (Th Singkhlai; dishes 35-100B; 7am-4pm Mon-Sat) This casual little hole-in-the-wall is good for breakfast or lunch. It has all the usual Thai and Chinese standards, along with a few Isan dishes that are not on the English menu, such as lâhp (spicy minced-meat salad) and sôm·am (spicy green papaya salad), plus ice cream.

Nakhon Pathom (no roman-script sign; Th Phahonyothin; dishes 40-60B; 8am-3pm) Named after a central-Thailand city, Nakhon Pathom is very popular for inexpensive kôw man gài (chicken rice) and go·ay ěe·o èt yâhng (roast duck with rice noodles).

Old Dutch (541 Th Phahonyothin; dishes 50-1000B; 8am-midnight) This cosy, foreigner-friendly restaurant is a good choice for those not quite ready for the city’s more authentic Thai offerings. A

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