Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [323]
Nong Bua
This neat and tidy Thai Lü village near the town of Tha Wang Pha, approximately 30km north of Nan, is famous for Lü-style Wat Nong Bua. Featuring a typical two-tiered roof and carved wooden portico, the bòht design is simple yet striking – note the carved naga heads at the roof corners. Inside the bòht are some noteworthy jataka murals thought to have been painted by Thit Buaphan, the same mural artist whose work can be seen at Wat Phumin. Be sure to leave at the altar a donation for temple upkeep and for its restoration.
There is a model Thai Lü house directly behind the wát where weaving is done and you can buy attractive local textiles.
To get there, northbound buses and srng·ta·ou (35B) to Tha Wang Pha leave from the bus terminal. Get off at Samyaek Longbom, a three-way intersection before Tha Wang Pha, and walk west to a bridge over Mae Nam Nan and turn left. Continue until you reach another small bridge, after which Wat Nong Bua will be on your right. It’s 3km from the highway to the wát.
Doi Phu Kha National Park
This national park (0 5470 1000; admission 200B) is centred on 2000m-high Doi Phu Kha, the province’s highest peak, in Amphoe Pua and Amphoe Bo Kleua in northeastern Nan (about 75km from Nan). There are several Htin, Mien, Hmong and Thai Lü villages in the park and vicinity, as well as a couple of caves and waterfalls, and endless opportunities for forest walks. The park headquarters has a basic map and staff can arrange a local guide for walks or more extended excursions around the area, as well as rafting on the Nam Wa. The park is often cold in the cool season and especially wet in the wet season.
The park offers a variety of bungalows (0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th; 2-7 people 300-2500B), and there is a nearby restaurant and basic shop.
To reach the national park by public transport you must first take a bus or srng·ta·ou north of Nan to Pua (50B), and then cross the highway to pick up one of the few daily srng·ta·ou that pass the park headquarters (40B, 30 minutes, 7.30am, 9.30am, 11.30am and 2pm).
Ban Bo Luang
pop 4000
Ban Bo Luang (also known as Ban Bo Kleua, or Salt Well Village) is a picturesque Htin village southeast of the Doi Phu Kha National Park where the long-standing occupation has been the extraction of salt from local salt wells. It’s easy to find the main community salt wells, more or less in the centre of the village.
If you have your own transport, the village is a good base for exploring the nearby national parks, Doi Phu Kha and Khun Nan National Park (08 4483 7240; admission free). The latter is located a few kilometres north of Ban Bo Kleua, and has a 2km walk from the visitor centre that ends in a viewpoint looking over local villages and nearby Laos.
Phu Fah (0 5471 0610; Tambon Phu Fah), a development program established by Princess Sirindhorn, is located approximately 15km south of Ban Bo Luang. The expansive grounds include tea plantations and other agricultural projects. There’s a gift shop with local goods, as well as accommodation (08 9557 5734; dorms 100B, doubles 600B to 800B) and a restaurant.
Accommodation in Ban Bor Luang is available at Boklua View (08 1809 6392; www.bokluaview.com; Ban Bo Luang; bungalows 1500-1650B), a new, attractive and well-run hillside resort overlooking the village and the Nam Mang that runs through it. The resort has its own garden and serves good food (be sure to try Chef Toun’s chicken deep-fried with northern Thai spices).
There are a few small restaurants serving basic dishes in Ban Bo Luang.
To reach Ban Bo Luang from Nan, take a bus or srng·ta·ou north of Nan to Pua (50B), cross the highway to take the srng·ta