Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [336]
Eating
Sukhothai’s signature dish is go·ay e·o sù·kh·tai, ‘Sukhothai-style noodles’, featuring a slightly sweet broth with different types of pork, ground peanuts and thinly sliced green beans. There are several places in town to try the dish, including Kuaytiaw Thai Sukhothai ( Map; Th Jarot Withithong; dishes 20-30B; 9am-8pm), about 200m south of the turn-off for Ruean Thai Hotel. For many visiting Thais, you haven’t been to Sukhothai if you haven’t tried the noodles at Jay Hae ( Map; 0 5561 1901; Th Jarot Withithong; dishes 25-40B; 7am-4pm), an extremely popular restaurant that also serves pàt tai and tasty coffee drinks. Across the street and consisting of little more than a brick floor with a tin roof over it, Ta Pui ( Map; Th Jarot Withithong; dishes 20-30B; 7am-3pm) claims to be the first shop in Sukhothai to have sold the famous noodle dish.
Poo Restaurant ( Map; 0 5561 1735; 24/3 Th Jarot Withithong; dishes 25-80B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Deceptively simple, this restaurant offers a diverse menu of breakfasts, hearty sandwiches and even a few Thai dishes. A good source of information, this is also the place to rent motorbikes in town.
Sukhothai Suki-Koka ( Map; Th Singhawat; dishes 30-90B; 10am-11pm) Specialising in Thai-style sukiyaki, this bright, homey place is popular for lunch. It serves plenty of Thai dishes but also does sandwiches and pasta.
Coffee Cup ( Map; Mu 3, Old Sukhothai; dishes 30-150B; 7am-10pm) If you’re staying in the old city or are an early riser, come here for breakfast; the coffee is strong and the bread is fresh. It also serves a variety of snacks and a whopping good hamburger. Internet service is 30B per hour. There’s also Coffee Cup 2, just a few doors down, which has a bar inside.
Fuang Fa ( Map; 08 1284 8262; 107/2 Th Khuhasuwan; dishes 60-120B; lunch & dinner) Pretend you’re a local in the know and stop by this riverside restaurant specialising in Sukhothai’s abundant and delicious freshwater fish. Try the lah néua òrn tôrt grà·teeam, small freshwater fish deep-fried with garlic and served with ripe starfruit, or any of the numerous and delicious ôm yam–style soups. The English-language menu is limited, so be sure to ask about recommended dishes.
Dream Café ( Map; 0 5561 2081; 86/1 Th Singhawat; dishes 80-150B; lunch & dinner) A meal at Dream Café is like dining in a museum or an antique shop. Eclectic but tasteful furnishings and knick-knackery abound, staff are equal parts competent and friendly, and most importantly of all, the food is good. The helpful menu lays down the basics of Thai food, explaining what to order and how to eat it. Try one of the well-executed yam (Thai-style ‘salads’), or one of the dishes that feature freshwater fish, a local speciality.
Don’t miss New Sukhothai’s numerous night stalls. Most are accustomed to accommodating foreigners and even have bilingual, written menus. On Tuesday nights, there are more lively night stalls in the square opposite Poo Restaurant. Near the ticket kiosk in the historical park, there is a collection of food stalls and simple open-air restaurants.
Drinking
Chopper Bar ( Map; Th Prawet Nakhon; 5-12.30pm) Travellers and locals congregate from dusk till hangover for food, drinks, live music and flirtation at this place, within spitting distance from Sukhothai’s tiny guesthouse strip.
Terrace & Trees ( Map; Th Singhawat; 5-12.30pm) Directly behind the Sawasdipong Hotel, this new bar/restaurant features live music of varying quality and is one of the trendier places in town to put back a few.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Sukhothai’s airport is 27km from town off Rte 1195, about 11km from Sawankhalok. It’s privately owned by Bangkok