Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [343]
It is worth renting a bicycle or motorbike to explore areas outside of the old city – Three J Guest House ( Click here) has both for rent (per day bicycle/motorcycle 50/200B).
TAK PROVINCE
Tak is a wild and mountainous province. Its proximity to Myanmar has resulted in a complex history and unique cultural mix.
The majority of Tak is forested and mountainous and is an excellent destination for those wanting to trek. There are Hmong, Musoe (Lahu), Lisu and White and Red Karen settlements throughout the west and north. In the 1970s many of these mountains were a hotbed of communist guerrilla activity. Since the 1980s the former leader of the local CPT movement has been involved in resort-hotel development and most of Tak is open to outsiders, but the area still has an untamed feeling about it.
Western Tak in particular has always been in distinct contrast with other parts of Thailand because of strong Karen and Burmese cultural influences. The Thailand–Myanmar border districts of Mae Ramat, Tha Song Yang and Mae Sot are dotted with refugee camps, an outcome of fire fights between the Karen National Union (KNU) and the Myanmar government. At the time of writing there were more than 121,000 registered Burmese refugees in Tak Province alone.
There’s little of interest in the eponymous provincial capital, and in recent years, transport to other parts of the province has improved greatly, allowing travellers to circumvent the city altogether. However, if you happen to be in the area, you can visit Wat Phra Borommathat in Ban Tak, 25km upstream along Mae Nam Tak from Tak. The wát is the original site of a Thai chedi that, according to legend, was constructed during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng (1275–1317) to celebrate his elephant-back victory over King Sam Chon, ruler of an independent kingdom once based at or near Mae Sot. The wát’s main feature is a large, slender, gilded chedi in the Shan style surrounded by numerous smaller but similar chedi. Many Thais flock to the temple each week in the belief that the chedi can somehow reveal to them the winning lottery numbers for the week.
Approximately 45km north of Tak via Rte 1 and then 17km west (between the Km463 and Km464 markers), via the road to Sam Ngao, is Kheuan Phumiphon (Bhumibol Dam), which impounds Mae Nam Ping at a height of 154m, making it the tallest dam in Southeast Asia. The shores and islands of the reservoir are a favourite picnic spot for local Thais.
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MAE SOT
pop 41,158
Despite its remote location and relatively small size, Mae Sot is among the most culturally diverse cities in Thailand. Walking down the streets of the town, you’ll see a fascinating ethnic mixture – Burmese men in their longyi (sarongs), Hmong and Karen women in traditional hill-tribe dress, bearded Muslims, Thai army rangers and foreign NGO workers. Burmese and Karen are spoken more than Thai, shop signs along the streets are in Thai, Burmese and Chinese, and most of the temple architecture in Mae Sot is Burmese. Mae Sot has also become the most important jade and gem centre along the border, with most of the trade controlled by Chinese and Indian immigrants from Myanmar.
Although there aren’t many formal sites to see in Mae Sot, and most tourists just come for a visa run, many end up staying longer than expected. A vibrant market, several good restaurants and a fun nightlife scene have become attractions in their own right.
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Information
Several centrally located banks have ATMs. International phone services can be found at Bai Fern restaurant ( Click here) and Se. Southeast Express Tours. There is no official tourist information or TAT office in Mae Sot, but good sources of information are Ban Thai Guest House ( Click here) and Khrua Canadian ( Click here); the latter prints a map of the area and has a chart of current bus times and fares.
Se. Southeast Express Tours (522/3