Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [347]
Khrua Canadian (0 5553 4659; 3 Th Sri Phanit; dishes 40-280B; 7am-9pm) This is the place to go if you want to forget you’re in Asia for one meal. Dave, the Canadian, brews his own coffee and also offers homemade bagels, deli meats and cheeses, in addition to a huge breakfast menu. The servings are large, the menu is varied, and when you finally remember you’re in Thailand again, local information is also available.
Bai Fern (0 5553 3343; Th Intharakhiri; dishes 50-350B; 8am-10pm) The cosy, wood-furnished Bai Fern has a pleasant atmosphere and is popular all day long. The Thai food here comes recommended, and there are steaks, salads and Burmese curries too. Or just stop by for the good coffee and cake and a look at the paper.
Khao-Mao Khao-Fang (no roman-script sign; 0 5553 2483; 382 Mu 5, Mae Pa; dishes 80-220B; 11am-10pm) Like dining in a gentrified jungle, this place, designed by a Thai botanist, replaces chandeliers with hanging vines, orchids and lots of running water. It also has one of the more interesting Thai menus you’ll find anywhere, with dishes featuring local ingredients such as fish from the Mae Nam Moei or local herbs and veggies. Try one of the several delicious-sounding yam (Thai-style spicy salads), featuring ingredients ranging from white turmeric to local mushrooms. The restaurant is north of town between the Km1 and Km2 markers on the road to Mae Ramat.
Drinking & Entertainment
Mae Sot has a lively nightlife that heats up at the weekends. The strip of Th Intharakhiri that runs west from Wat Aranyakhet is where most bars, including those below, are located.
Kung’s Bar (Th Intharakhiri) Popular with the NGO set, this fun bar is decked out with murals and an odd combination of antiques and kitsch. A huge and detailed drink menu will appeal to those who don’t do beer.
Thaime’s (08 9649 9994; Th Intharakhiri; 3pm-midnight) The only not-for-profit bar we’ve ever encountered, this place is exceedingly casual and has a brief snack menu. Profits from your fun go to a school for migrant children. The bar sometimes accepts volunteer help, so call ahead for details.
Shopping
Mae Sot’s municipal market is among the largest and most vibrant we’ve encountered anywhere in Thailand. In addition to the usual Thai wet market veggies and dry goods, there’s heaps of exotic stuff from Myanmar, including Burmese bookshops, sticks of thanaka (the source of the yellow powder you see on most faces), bags of pickled tea leaves, bizarre cosmetics from across the border and velvet thong slippers from Mandalay. Unlike most markets in Thailand it doesn’t require a 6am wake-up call and is up and running pretty much all day. It’s also a great place to try authentic Burmese food.
Mae Sot is most famous for its gems trade, and is the most important jade and gem centre along the border. Check out the hustle and bustle among the glittering treasures in the shops and stalls along Th Prasat Withi, just east of the market. If looking to buy be prepared to bargain hard.
Borderline Shop (0 5554 6584; borderlinecollective.org; 674/14 Th Intharakhiri; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) Selling arts and craft items made by refugee women, the profits of this shop go back into a women’s collective and a child-assistance foundation. All of the products, such as bags, clothes and household items, have labels on them so you know where the money is going. Upstairs a gallery sells paintings, and a cookery course ( Click here) and an outdoor ‘tea garden’ are also here.
Getting There & Away
Orange srng·ta·ou to Mae Sariang (200B, six hours, five departures from 6am to noon) depart from the old bus station near the centre of town. Blue srng·ta·ou to Um Phang (120B, four hours, every hour from 7.30am to 3.30pm)