Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [363]
MASSAGE & SPA TREATMENTS
There are plenty of traditional Thai massage places around town charging around 150B an hour. Reiki, crystal healing acupuncture, reflexology and other non-indigenous methods of healing are also available; keep your eyes open for signs or refer to the Pai Post or the Pai Events Planner. Some of the more established outfits follow.
Pai Traditional Thai Massage (PTTM; 0 5369 9121; 68/3 Soi 1, Th Wiang Tai; massage per 1/1½/2hr 180/270/350B, sauna per visit 80B, 3-day massage course 2500B; 9am-9pm) This established and locally-owned outfit offers very good northern-Thai massage, as well as a sauna where you can steam yourself in sà·mŭn·prai (medicinal herbs). Three-day massage courses begin every Monday and Friday and last three hours per day. The friendly couple that do the massages and teach the course are accredited and are graduates of Chiang Mai’s Old Medicine Hospital.
Mr Jan’s Massage (Mr Jan’s Bungalows; Soi Wanchaloem 18; per hr 150B) For those into the rougher stuff, this place employs a harder Shan-Burmese massage technique.
A few local businesses near Tha Pai Hot Springs have taken advantage of the healing thermal waters. Aroma Pai Spa (08 7187 0791; 110 Moo 2, Ban Mae Hi; thermal water soak 50B, spa treatments from 850B; 7.30am-9pm) offers soaks in private rooms and a communal pool, as well as a variety of spa treatments. Next door, Spa Exotic (0 5306 5722; www.spaexotic.com; 86 Moo 2, Ban Mae Hi) goes a step further and channels the hot water into its bungalow bathrooms; nonguests can soak for 100B, or combine this with a Thai massage for 300B. Pai Hotsprings Spa Resort (0 1951 2784; www.thapaispa.com; Ban Mae Hi; 1hr massage 300B, thermal water soak 50B) is a resort-style hotel that also offers massages and thermal water soaks.
SPORTS FACILITIES
Fluid (Ban Mae Yen; admission 60B; 9am-6pm) is a pool/gym complex just outside of town, roughly across from Sun Hut. There’s a herbal steam room (per hour 80B) and yoga lessons are offered (10am Monday, Wednesday and Friday).
Courses
COOKING
Pai Cookery School (08 1706 3799; Soi Wanchaloem; courses per day 750-1000B) With nearly a decade of experience, this outfit offers a choice of three courses spanning several different dishes. The course typically involves a trip to the market for ingredients, learning how to make five meals, getting a free recipe book and, of course, eating your creations at the end. One- to three-day courses are available.
Many guesthouses also offer cooking courses.
THAI BOXING
True Bee Gym (08 4704 4833; www.truebee.com; Ban Mae Hi; tuition per half-day/day 250/400B) offers scholarship in Thai boxing just across the Nam Pai. Lessons are held twice daily (8am to 10.30am and 4pm to 6.30pm).
YOGA
Mam Yoga House (08 9954 4981; Th Rangsiyanon; 1-day course 200-550B) Just north of the police station, Mam offers Hatha Yoga classes and courses in small groups.
Sleeping
Pai used to be an exceedingly inexpensive place to stay and we still recall the days of the 50B riverside bungalow. But the 2005 flood demolished most of the truly cheap places, most of which have been replaced by upper-budget or midrange choices. There are still some cheap places outside of the centre of town, which is where you should base yourself if you’re coming to Pai with preconceived notions of an idyllic, rural stay.
The fastest growing bracket at the moment is the top end, with most new hotels being built a few kilometres outside the centre of town. Many of these are run by people from Bangkok and are generally targeted towards domestic, rather than foreign, tourists.
Keep in mind that prices fluctuate immensely in Pai, and nearly all the midrange and top-end accommodation cut their prices, sometimes by as much as 60%, during