Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [368]
Baan Phleng (Local Northern Thai food; cnr Th Khetkalang & Th Chaisongkhram; dishes 30-60B; 10am-10pm) A branch of the excellent Mae Hong Son restaurant of the same name, this popular place does a mix of northern Thai and Mae Hong Son–specific dishes. To go truly local, try the ‘fern salad Maehongson style’, tender ferns par-boiled and mixed with a dressing combining sesame oil, dried chili and garlic, or ‘pork and tomato chili paste’, the Shan dish known locally as nám prík òrng. There’s an English-language menu with photos if you feel you’re treading in unfamiliar waters.
Laap Khom Huay Pu (no roman-script sign; 0 5369 9126; Ban Huay Pu; dishes 35-60B; 9am-10pm) Escape the dreadlocks and tofu crowd and get your meat at this unabashedly carnivorous local eatery. The house special, and the dish you must order, is lâhp kôoa, minced meat (beef or pork) fried with local herbs and spices. Accompanied by a basket of sticky rice, a plate of bitter herbs and a cold Singha, it’s the best meal in Pai. The restaurant is about 1km north of town, on the first street just past the turn-off to Belle Villa and Baan Krating.
All About Coffee (0 5369 9429; Th Chaisongkhram; dishes 45-75B; 8.30am-6.30pm) This tiny wooden place was probably the first business to do the cutesy ‘bohemian’ style that now dominates much of Pai. Come here for eye-opening coffee drinks and the best French toast in town. Yummy open sandwiches are made with homemade bread.
Burger House (0 5369 9093; Th Rangsiyanon; dishes 50-240B; 9am-9pm) If you are hankering after a big juicy burger this is the place to come. Try the super-high Barbarian Burger with its two quarter pounders, two cheeses and special sauce. Or if you need a fortifying breakfast, go for the Truck Driver Special, which will probably take most of the morning to get through.
Mama Falafel (Soi Wanchaloem; dishes 60-90B; 11am-8pm) Since 2002 this friendly native of Pai has been cooking up tasty felafel, hummus, schnitzel and other Jewish/Israeli faves. Come on Friday and Saturday when she does hamin, the Jewish stew, accompanied by challah bread.
Baan Benjarong (0 5369 8010; Th Rangsiyanon; dishes 60-150B; lunch & dinner) This converted house serving central Thai dishes is where the locals come for a ‘nice’ Thai meal. Dishes like stewed, salted crabs in coconut milk, and spicy banana flower salad are delectable. Out the back are tables with views of the rice paddies.
The Sanctuary (0 5369 8150; 115/1 Moo 4 Th Wiang Tai; dishes 80-290B) The local/organic dishes at this new-agey quasi-veggie restaurant are rather expensive by local standards, but the cakes and coffee are tasty, and the free wi-fi and, yes, free yoga lessons (10.30am Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday) are a good deal. There’s also a variety of live music on most nights.
Amido’s Pizza Garden (Th Ratchadamnoen; dishes 80-320B; dinner) Considering how far Pai is from Naples, we reckon they do a pretty damn good pizza here. If you’re willing to book ahead of time, they also do special set meals for groups, such as a goat leg feast or paella. It’s just across the permanent bridge over Mae Nam Pai.
Drinking & Entertainment
Pai boasts a small but happening live-music scene.
Bebop (Th Rangsiyanon; 6pm-1am) This legendary box is popular with travellers and has live music nightly (from about 9.30pm), playing blues, R&B and rock.
Park@Pai (Th Ratchadamnoen; 6pm-midnight) Parking Toys ( Click here), one of Bangkok’s best live-music pubs, has opened a branch in Pai. Rock to visiting bands while seated on funky furniture and snacking on their excellent food (it’d be a crime to miss their fantastic ‘hot & sour crispy chicken salad’).
Ting Tong (Th Rangsiyanon; 7pm-1am) A sprawling compound of bamboo decks, concrete platforms, hidden tables and towering trees, this is one of the larger bars in town.