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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [370]

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and Nam Pai rivers (1500B per person, at least four people). Two-day treks start at 800B per person (at least two people). The office is at the far western edge of town.

Sleeping & Eating

All accommodation, most of which is found along Soppong’s main road, is clearly marked by signs. There’s little in the way of food in Soppong, but virtually every guesthouse has a restaurant attached.

Rim Doi (08 9952 8870; r & bungalows 200-600B) About 2km from Soppong, along the road to Tham Lot, this place unites bamboo huts and more permanent-feeling rooms on a grassy hillside. Rooms are large and comfortably furnished.

Lisu Hill Tribe Homestay (08 9998 4886, 08 5721 1575; www.lisuhilltribe.com; r incl meals 300B) Run by an American and his Lisu wife, this place offers activity-based accommodation in Nong Thong, a Lisu village within walking distance of Soppong. Various craft and culture classes ranging from Lisu music to meditation can be arranged for an additional 700B; check out the website for options. Call ahead for pick-up from the town’s bus station (20B).

Lemon Hill Guest House (0 5361 7039, 0 5361 7213; r & bungalows 300-1500B; ) Due to its location across from the town bus stop, this guesthouse is probably the most popular place in town, although it must be said that there are nicer places to stay. There’s a mish-mash of accommodation ranging from rooms to bungalows – check out a few before coming to a decision. The restaurant overlooking the river serves tasty food using its homegrown organic veggies.

Soppong River Inn (0 5361 7107; www.soppong.com; bungalows 300B, r 700-1200B; ) Combining five rooms in a rambling riverside structure and a handful of free-standing bungalows, this is the most attractive place in Soppong. Set among lush gardens with winding paths, the rooms have heaps of character and are all slightly different. The River Rim Cottage is our fave, as it has a private balcony situated right over the river. All guests have access to the shared balcony overlooking a small gorge. Soppong River Inn is at the western edge of town, within walking distance from the bus station.

Little Eden Guesthouse (0 5361 7054; www.littleeden-guesthouse.com; r & bungalows 450-2000B; ) The nine A-frame bungalows around a pleasant, grass-decked pool are well kept with hot-water showers. Yet, it’s the beautiful two-storey ‘houses’ that make this place special. Perfect for families or a group of friends, they are stylishly decorated, have living rooms, interesting nooks and crannies, and terraces with hammocks. The owner can speak Thai, English, Danish and German and organises all sorts of activities in the area.

Baan Café (0 5361 7081; khunjui@yahoo.com; r 600B, bungalows 1200B) At the edge of town near the bridge, this place combines spotless rooms and house-like bungalows in a park-like setting by the Nam Lang. The bungalows include fireplaces, have balconies looking over the river and are terrific value. Baan Café is also one of the better restaurants in town and serves locally grown coffee.

Northern Hill Guest House (0 5361 7081; khunjui@yahoo.com; r & bungalows 600-1500B) This place combines several cramped but tidy bungalows on a hill looking over Soppong. Some rooms include TV and fridge. Northern Hill is at the eastern extent of town, opposite the turn-off to Tham Lot.

Hillside Cottage (0 5361 7107; www.sopponghills.com; r & bungalows 900-1200B) Directly opposite Soppong River Inn, Hillside consists of several tidy, but slightly overpriced, rooms and bungalows on a manicured hill. Take-away northern Thai food is available outside the gate every evening.

Baankeawmora (Coffee Cottage; 0 5361 7078; dishes 40-160B; 8am-6pm) Good food and real coffee can be had at this cute wooden house along the road to Tham Lot. Early morning breakfasts and late dinners can be arranged in advance.

Border (0 5361 7102; noon-midnight) Next to Lemon Hill and run by an English and Thai couple, this formerly bare-bones beer shack has expanded to serving coffee and food. There’s free wi-fi and it’s also the place to find out about what’s

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