Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [375]
Hern Tai Resort (0 5368 9033; www.herntai.com; 420 Moo 1, Ban Mae La Noi; r 400-800B, bungalows 1000B) Set in the middle of scenic rice fields in Ban Mae La Noi, 25km north of Mae Sariang, this place combines a unique setting and attractive accommodation. There are large rooms in a wooden Shan-style building and two expansive bungalows. To get here, take the turn-off just after the viewpoint/coffee shop at the southern end of town.
Riverhouse Hotel (0 5362 1201; www.riverhousehotels.com; 77 Th Laeng Phanit; r incl breakfast1000-1300B; ) The combination of nostalgia-inducing teak and stylish decor makes this riverside hotel the best spot in town. Air-conditioned 2nd-floor rooms have huge verandas overlooking the river, as well as floor-to-ceiling windows. Downstairs, fan rooms are also riverside and have hammocks outside and there’s a good restaurant.
Located virtually next door, and run by the same people, Riverhouse Resort (0 5368 3066; www.riverhousehotels.com; Th Laeng Phanit; r incl breakfast 1800-2800B; ) is similar but lacks its sister’s charm. Ask for a river view room as the town-side ones are the same price. Both places have good restaurants.
Eating & Drinking
Ban Rao (0 5368 1743; Th Laeng Phanit; dishes 30-140B; 5-10pm) For an authentic Thai dinner minus the spice, head to this homey riverside restaurant. The English-language menu touches on just about everything, from familiar curries to the more exotic yam sôm oh, a Thai-style salad of pomelo.
Inthira Restaurant (0 5368 1529; Th Wiang Mai; dishes 30-150B; 8am-10pm) Probably the town’s best restaurant, this place features a strong menu of dishes using unique ingredients such as locally-grown shiitake mushrooms and fish from the Mae Nam Moei. Everything’s tasty, the prices are low and the setting cosy and informal.
Kai Yang Rai Khwan (dishes 30-180B; 10am-5pm) Head here for the Isan trinity of grilled chicken, papaya salad and sticky rice. This simple place is at the foot of the bridge crossing.
Sawadee Restaurant & Bar (Th Laeng Phanit; dishes 40-150B; 8am-midnight) Like a beachside bar, this is a great place to recline with a beer and watch the water (in this case the Mae Nam Yuam). There’s a lengthy menu with lots of options for vegetarians.
Coriander in Redwood (Th Laeng Phanit; dishes 40-180B; noon-10pm) The city’s poshest restaurant, this attractive wooden structure makes a big deal of its steaks, but we’d suggest sticking with Thai dishes such as the various nám prík (chili-based dips). There’s also ice cream and iced coffee drinks for an afternoon cooler.
Getting There & Around
There are several srng·ta·ou to Mae Sot (200B, six hours, seven departures from 6.30am to 12.30pm), departing from the bus station when full.
Located at the bus station, Prempracha Tour (0 5368 1347) conducts buses between Mae Sariang and Mae Hong Song (ordinary/air-con 100/180B, four hours, five departures from 7am to 5.30pm), with a stop midway in Khun Yuam (ordinary/air-con 70/110B, two hours). There are also buses to Chiang Mai (ordinary/air-con 100/180B, four hours, five departures from 7am to 3pm).
With an office just north of the bus station, Sombat Tour (0 5368 1532; Th Mae Sariang) handles buses to Bangkok (2nd-class air-con/1st-class 508/653B, 14 hours, four departures from 4pm to 7pm).
Motorcycles are available for rent at Sawadee Restaurant & Bar ( Click here) and Northwest Guest House ( Click here).
Destinations anywhere in town are 20B by motorcycle taxi.
AROUND MAE SARIANG
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Salawin National Park & Mae Sam Laep
This national park (0 5307 1429; admission 100B) covers 722 sq km of protected land in Mae Sariang and Sop Moei districts. The park is heavily forested in teak, Asian redwood and cherrywood, and is home to the second-largest teak tree in Thailand. There are numerous hiking trails, and it’s also possible to travel by