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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [381]

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concrete box with small rooms, but a two-toned paint job and various little decorations (not to mention the little dumbwaiter for your luggage) make for a nice change from the usual. The owner is very friendly.

MIDRANGE & TOP END

Thai Inter Hotel (0 4424 7700; www.thaiinterhotel.com; 344/2 Th Yommarat; r 550-650B; ) This little hotel opened in 2008. It tries to be hip, and it pretty much pulls it off – patching together an odd mix of styles. It’s got a convenient location near many good restaurants and bars.

Chaophaya Inn (0 4426 0555; www.chaophayainn.com; 62/1 Th Jomsurangyat; r 500-1000B; ) Rising beyond the jailhouse vibes endemic in most of Khorat’s midrange options, the Chaophaya offers cleanliness, comfort, free in-room wi-fi and a little atmosphere for a very reasonable price.

Rachaphruk Grand Hotel (0 4426 1222; www.rachaphruk.com; Th Mittaphap; r 1200-1500B; ) ‘Grand’ is laying it on a little thick, but this slightly dowdy four-star affair (the only hotel in its class in the city centre) is a decent bet if you fancy a few business-style comforts, or just want wide views of the city. There’s a fitness centre with a sauna, three restaurants and many other attached entertainment options. Plus, the staff dress like cowboys.

Eating

One speciality not to miss during your stay is pàt mèe koh·râht. It’s similar to pát tai, but boasts more flavour and is made with a local style of rice noodle (mèe koh·râht). It’s available at most restaurants. You can also sample it, along with deep-fried crickets, pork sausages and other Isan specialities, at the Wat Boon Night Bazaar (Th Chomphon).

Im Bum (08 1725 6008; Th Buarong; dishes 25-130B; breakfast & lunch) The menu at this wood-encased, friendly, vegetarian affair is in Thai only. But since they do mock-meat versions of Thai and Chinese standards, you can just order your favourites and the message will probably get through. Or, just point to something in the buffet cart.

Cabbages & Condoms (0 4425 3760; 86/1 Th Seup Siri; dishes 35-200B; lunch & dinner) This regular favourite offers a leafy terrace, a wine list (something of a rarity in this part of Thailand) and plenty of newspaper clippings celebrating the work of the nonprofit Population & Community Development Association, towards which all proceeds go.

Rabieng-Pa (0 4424 3137; 284 Th Yommarat; dishes 45-220B; dinner) The leafiest and loveliest restaurant on this stretch of Th Yommarat (and arguably all of Khorat) is also one of the most low key. The picture menu makes ordering the tasty Thai food risk free.

Chez Andy (0 4428 9556; Th Manat; dishes 80-1250B; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Khorat’s archetypal expat haunt, this Swiss-managed place (appropriately housed in a red-and-white villa set back off the road) has a global menu with fondue, steak and fried rice available.

Also recommended:

Big Chili (0 4424 7469; 158/8 Th Chakkri; dishes 70-350B; dinner) Pretty good Mexican, for Thailand.

Anego (0 4426 0530; 62/1 Th Jomsurangyat; dishes 50-600B; dinner) For authentic Japanese sushi and noodle dishes, plus some Italian pastas.

Drinking & Entertainment

Khorat has a glut of good bars. Worthwhile bar-hopping destinations include the Th Yommarat/Th Kudan junction, Th Mahat Thai east of Th Manat and the Th Seup Siri/Soi 3 area. Bar Nana (Th Mittaphap) at the Rachaphruk Grand Hotel has the hottest dance floor downtown – it closes at 2am and isn’t really hopping until close to midnight.

The top-tier Sima Thani Hotel (0 4421 3100; Th Mittaphap) often hosts ohng·lahng Isan music and dance shows for tour groups, though anyone can come to watch.

The Mall has a mini-waterpark and the city’s best movie theatre.

Shopping

Khorat has two downtown night markets. Both are at their best from 6pm to 10pm. While it’s got nothing on Chiang Mai’s version, Thanon Manat Night Bazaar (Th Manat) is fun to stroll. It’s mostly clothes and accessories (no handicrafts) and draws a youthful crowd. The smaller Wat Boon Night Bazaar is better for dining than shopping.

The Mall (Th Mittaphap; 10.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun) is

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