Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [391]
Wat Khao Angkhan
Although this peaceful temple atop an extinct volcano has an ancient past, as evidenced by the 8th or 9th century Dvaravati sandstone boundary markers, it’s the modern constructions that make Wat Khao Angkhan (daylight hr) worth a visit. The bòht and several other flamboyant buildings were erected in 1982 in an unusual nouveau-Khmer style that sort of hearkens back to the age of empire. Inside the bòht, the jataka (stories of the Buddha’s previous lives) murals, painted by Burmese artists, have English captions. The wát also hosts a Chinese-style pagoda, a 29m reclining Buddha and beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and forest.
The temple is about 20km from Nang Rong or Phanom Rung, and there’s no public transport. The route is pretty well signposted, but you’ll have to ask directions at some junctions. A motorcycle taxi from Ban Ta Pek could cost as little as 200B, and 300B from Nang Rong.
SURIN & SI SAKET PROVINCES
Surin and Si Saket Provinces are dotted with Angkor-era Khmer ruins. Most are now looking rather tatty, but for those with a history habit many are worth the effort to reach. In particular, Prasat Ta Meuan is very evocative and Khao Phra Wihan ranks among the northeast’s best attractions, despite the Cambodian government’s refusal to renovate it. The Khmer influence comes not only from the past, but also the present. Over one-third of the population of these two closely related provinces is ethnically Khmer and this remains the principal language in many villages.
Besides the temples, Surin Province is home to Ban Tha Klang elephant village and some famous craft centres, while Si Saket holds two of Thailand’s most unusual temples. The region’s towns are rather less interesting, although Surin makes a comfortable base and each November provides the backdrop for the raucous Annual Elephant Round-up.
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SURIN
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Surin doesn’t have much to say for itself until November, when the provincial capital explodes into life for the Surin Elephant Round-up. Hosting giant scrums of pachyderm (you’ve never seen so many well-dressed tuskers), the city celebrates for 10 days. However, the massive crowds come on just the last weekend for the main event, which features 300 elephants showing their skills and taking part in a battle re-enactment. Tickets start at 40B, but VIP seats (which get you closest to the action, English commentary and guaranteed shade) start at 500B. Arguably the festival’s best event is the elephant buffet on the Friday before the big show.
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Information
Most of Thailand’s big banks have branches on Th Thesaban south of the train station, which is also where the post office is found.
Microsys (Th Sirirat; internet per hr 15B; 24hr) Across from Thong Tarin Hotel.
OTOP (0 4451 4447; Th Jit Bamrung; 9am-7.30pm) Across from City Hall, this shop has the broadest selection of crafts, plus a city-specific tourist office.
Ruampaet Hospital (0 4451 3192; Th Thesaban 1)
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; 0 4451 4447; tatsurin@tat.or.th; 355/3-6 Th Thesaban 1; 8.30am-4.30pm) Across from the hospital.
Sights & Activities
As has been the case ever since the Surin National Museum (0 4451 3358) was constructed a decade ago, the best guess anyone can give for when it will open is ‘next year’. Displays focus on Surin’s ethnic groups (including the Suai, the region’s renowned elephant herders) and the province’s Khmer ruins. It’s 5km south of town on Rte 214 and if you drop by they’ll probably let you in.
The Surin Agriculture Service Centre (0 4451 1393; Hwy 226; admission free; 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri), a sericulture research centre 4km west of town, is the easiest place around to see the entire silk-making process, from larva to loom.
Surin is well set up for those looking to give something back during their trip. Starfish Ventures (08 1723 1403; www.starfishvolunteers.com) runs over a dozen volunteer projects ranging from nursing to English teaching to home building. The work is done in surrounding villages,