Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [397]
The main rah·sàht tower in the final court at the summit needs major restoration before the viewer can get a true idea of its former magnificence. Many of the stone carvings from the rah·sàht are missing, while others lie buried in nearby rubble. The galleries surrounding the rah·sàht have fared better and have even kept their arched roofs.
The area around the temple witnessed heavy fighting between Khmer Rouge guerrillas and the Phnom Penh government, and landmines and artillery pieces still litter the surrounding forest, so heed the skull-and-crossbones signs around the temple, even when the locals don’t.
OTHER SIGHTS
The 130-sq-km national park (still open to visitors) contains a number of sights that are worth a peep before (or after) tramping over the border to Khao Phra Wihan itself. Near the visitor centre (7am-5pm), which includes some interesting exhibits on the temple’s history, the Pha Mo-E-Daeng cliff features some fabulous views and the oldest bas-relief in Thailand. The carving depicts three figures, sitting below a roughly cut pig (which might represent Vishnu), whose identities are an enigma to archaeologists and art historians. Although they give the general impression of representing deities, angels or kings, the iconography corresponds to no known figures in Thai, Mon or Khmer mythology. Stylistically the relief appears to date back to the Koh Ker (AD 921–45) period of Khmer art, when King Jayavarman IV ruled from his capital at Koh Ker. Across the parking lot is Nam Tok Khun Si, a waterfall flowing over a cave large enough to hold an orchestra. There’s usually only water in the stream from late June to October, and you should visit with a park ranger because it’s assumed landmines are buried in the area.
Sleeping & Eating
The park has four bungalows (0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th/parkreserve; 4-6 people 600-2000B) well away from the visitor centre, and a campsite (per person with own tent 30B; 2-10-person tent hire 150-600B). There were once many restaurants across from the visitor centre, and vendors in the ruins themselves sold drinks and snacks.
The nearest town with accommodation is Kantharalak. It’s not a bad place to lay your head if you’re leaving the ruins late in the day or intending to visit them early in the morning. The rooms are rather dull, but the SB Hotel (0 4566 3103; 136 Th Anan Ta Pak Dee; r 250-550B; ) is clean and friendly; and the coffee shop/internet cafe out front makes it a good base. It’s in the heart of the city, and a túk-túk from the bus station should cost 20B.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Route 221 leads 95km south from Si Saket to Phum Saron (10km before the temple) via Kantharalak. First take a bus from Surin to Kantharalak (45B, 1½ hours) and then catch a srng·ta·ou to Phum Saron (35B, 40 minutes); both depart about every half-hour until 3pm. From Phum Saron you’ll have to hire a motorcycle taxi to the park; figure on 200B return with a couple of hours waiting time. A truck may cost 400B. Drivers in Phum Saron are well aware that visitors who have already come this far are unlikely to turn back and so they hold all the cards in bargaining. Hitching to the park is possible, but could take a long time (especially on weekdays).
You can also catch a bus from Ubon Ratchathani to Kantharalak (50B, 1½ hours, every half-hour).
Other Khmer Ruins
Thirty kilometres west of Si Saket via Rte 226 in Amphoe Uthumphon Phisai, Prasat Wat Sa Kamphaeng Yai (admission free; daylight hr), built as a shrine to Shiva, features four 11th-century prang and two wí·hhn (large hall in a Thai temple, usually open to laity). The prang (including the main one, which was built of sandstone but restored with brick) have lost their tops, but many lintels and other