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peninsula at the confluence of the Mekong and Mun Rivers – which the Thais call Mae Nam Song Si (Two-Colour River) after the contrasting currents formed at the junction. In the rainy season the multicoloured merger is visible from the shore, but the rest of the year you’ll need to go out in a boat to see it properly; or, in April, just before the rains begin, you can walk out. A large boat with a sunshade that can carry 10 people costs 350B, while you’ll pay 200B in a tiny boat that holds two. The big boats can also take you to Kaeng Tana (800B) or Pha Taem (1200B) National Parks.

Fishermen here use huge conical traps that look much like the fish traps appearing in the 3000-year-old murals at Pha Taem. Naga fireballs (see the boxed text, Click here) began appearing here in 2005.

Thais can cross the Mekong to Laos here, but foreigners cannot. The immigration office (0 4535 1084; 12/1 Th Kaewpradit; 8.30am-4.30pm) does, however, give visa extensions.

SLEEPING & EATING

Khong Jiam doesn’t get many fa·ràng visitors, but it’s popular with Thais, so there’s an abundance of lodging choices.

Apple Guesthouse (0 4535 1160; 267 Th Kaewpradit; r 150-300B; ) Down a tiny little alley, the worn-out Apple has wooden buildings with concrete rooms below. It’s pretty basic but clean, and it’s the cheapest place in town.

Bon Pak Mongkhon Resort (0 4535 1352; www.mongkhon.com; 595 Th Kaewpradit; r 200-800B; ) From the simple fan rooms to the four cute wooden cottages, this place near the highway has friendly owners and lots of character, making it a great choice for any budget.

Khong Jiam Homestay (08 1977 2825; r 300B) Talk about yin and yang, these six wood-and-thatch cottages sit in a patch of forest right next to the Tohsang Resort, and have mattresses on the floors and roofless (but private) bathrooms. There’s no food, but you can cook over a fire, or splash out and eat next door at Tohsang. It’s often empty, but sometimes full with groups from Bangkok, so you may want to call before coming out here. A túk-túk from town should cost about 50B.

Baansuanrimnam Resort (08 7460 0100; www.baansuan.th.gs; 505 Th Rimmoon; r 700-1000B; ) This quiet, shady spot sits at the end of a little row of resorts along the Mun River. It has comfortable bungalows, with the most expensive featuring terraces looking at the water through a line of trees. To get there, turn right at the school just before the temple.

Tohsang Khong Jiam Resort (0 4535 1174; www.tohsang.com; r 2350-3890B, villas 3500-14,800B; ) The glitz and gloss at this large resort-spa are somewhat incongruous for this stretch of rural Thailand, but it holds all the aces in the posh-accommodation stakes, and the prices for the rooms are fair for what you get. Ask for a 3rd-floor room for the best views. It’s 3.5km out of town on the south bank of the river.

There are several simple restaurants near the Mae Nam Song Si, including two pricey ones floating on the Mekong.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

All transport in town stops at the highway junction. There’s only one bus from Ubon (80B, three hours, 10am) each day. It returns at 1pm. If you miss it, go to Phibun Mangsahan (Click here) first and continue by srng·ta·ou (35B, one hour, every 1½ hours) from the parking area next to the bridge, which is about 1km (20B by túk-túk) from the Phibun bus park.

Both Apple and Mongkhon guesthouses hire out bicycles (100B per day) and motorcycles (200B per day).

Pha Taem National Park

Up the Mekong from Khong Jiam is a long cliff named Pha Taem, the centrepiece of Pha Taem National Park (0 4531 8026; admission 200B). From the top you get an amazing bird’s-eye view of Laos, and can see the first sunset in Thailand. Down below, reached via a trail, the cliff features prehistoric rock paintings that are at least 3000 years old. Mural subjects include fish traps, lah bèuk (giant Mekong catfish), elephants, human hands and geometric designs. The second viewing platform fronts the most impressive pictographs. A clifftop visitor centre (8am-5pm) contains exhibits pertaining to the paintings and local geology.