Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [408]
Tonkoon Hotel (0 4481 7881; 379 Th Bannakan; r 500B; ) Rooms rather resemble a college dorm; nevertheless, this spic-and-span ‘mansion’ standard hotel is the clear choice at this price. Free wi-fi extends throughout.
Deeprom Hotel (0 4482 2222; 339/9 Th Bannakan; r 800-900B, ste 1800B; ) With its crazy colour scheme and bold boast (the name means ‘good at everything’), this new (opened 2008) hotel demands attention. Rooms are a little less flashy, but good for the price and also have free wi-fi.
Siam River Resort (0 4481 1999; www.siamriverresort.com; Th Bannakan; r 890-1500B, ste 2000B, cottage 3500B; ) Chaiyaphum doesn’t cater to droves of tourists, but this incongruous resort, hidden out of earshot of the hubbub of the city (what little there is, anyway) hosts many of those who do come. Guests get free use of wi-fi and bicycles.
Eating
Chaiyaphum’s signature food is mahm (sour beef and liver) sausages, but they’re an acquired taste and don’t make it onto many menus. The Night Bazaar (4-11pm) west of downtown is a better foraging destination than the night market (5pm-1am) by the bus station.
Chor Ra Gah Lahb Gory (no roman-script sign; 08 7246 7951; 299/21 Th Bannakan; dishes 25-60B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) With its concrete floor, corrugated metal roof and old-time foods – like the namesake gôry (raw beef with lemon, chilli, fish sauce and extra blood) – this no-nonsense Isan eatery takes diners back to the village. The partial picture menu gets you through the language barrier.
Jae Hai Tek (no roman-script sign; 08 6914 0439; Th Tantawan; dishes 30-40B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This is a simple, friendly, all-vegetarian affair. It serves a range of Thai and Chinese standards, using mock meats to make chicken, cuttlefish (lah mèuk) and other dishes. Order from the pictures taped to the side of the glass case.
Lady Restaurant (0 4482 1404; Th Nonthankhon; dishes 30-180B; dinner) One of several garden restaurants in this part of town, Lady serves some exquisite Thai food. Unfortunately, there’s no English menu, but you can’t go wrong with ôm yam gài bâhn (Isan-style spicy and sour soup with free-range chicken), lah tábtim râht prík (deep-fried red tilapia with sweet-and-sour chilli sauce) or pàt gà rèe gûng (shrimp with Indian curry sauce).
Getting There & Away
Khon Kaen (ordinary/2nd class 58B/90, 2½ hours, hourly) and Khorat (ordinary/1st class 56/101B, two hours, every half-hour) buses leave from Chaiyaphum’s bus terminal (0 4481 1344). So do some 2nd-class buses for Bangkok (2nd class 196B, five hours, every half-hour in the morning and every two hours in the afternoon). However, there are more departures for Bangkok with Air Chaiyaphum (0 4481 1556) and Air Loei (0 4481 1446). They each charge 252B for 1st class and 294B for the 32-seat VIP service, and have their own terminals. Air Loei also has a midnight 24-seat VIP (392B) departure.
Nakhonchai Air (0 4481 2522) has six evening-only services to Ubon Ratchathani (2nd class/32-seat VIP 234/347B, seven hours) and Chiang Mai (2nd class/32-seat VIP 377/716B, 11 hours), also from its own terminal. Buy tickets behind the orange gate.
Getting Around
A túk-túk should cost no more than 30B for any destination in town.
AROUND CHAIYAPHUM
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Ban Khwao
Most visitors to Chaiyaphum make a stop in the silk village of Ban Khwao, 13km southwest of town on Rte 225, where some 50 shops sell fabric and clothing. The town is known for its mát·mèe designs (and its low prices due to the material being rather thin). However, these days embroidery is all the rage and most families in town have sewing machines under their homes rather than looms.
The Silk Development Centre (no roman-script sign; 0 4489