Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [413]
Turm-Rom (0 4322 1752; 4/5 Th Chetakhon; dishes 35-129B; dinner) This superb place combines one of the best kitchens in town with a quiet, covered garden to create something of a gourmet pub. It’s the kind of place where people tend to stick around long into the night. The menu focuses on curries, spicy seafood and salads (yam). The hòr mòk tá·lair (seafood curry served in a coconut) is especially good, but in our many visits we’ve never had a dud dish.
Plapanoy (no roman-script sign; 0 4322 4694; Th Robbung; dishes 40-200B; lunch & dinner) This large alfresco spot near Beung Kaen Nakhon is where locals bring out-of-town guests to sample genuine Isan food. Fish is the speciality and the menu has English.
First Choice (08 1546 2085; 18/8 Th Phimphaseut; dishes 40-250B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) An unusual thing for Thailand: a traveller-focused guesthouse serving Thai food good enough that Thai people sometimes eat here. Eat inside or on a little terrace surrounded by potted plants.
Restaurant Didine (08 7189 3864; Th Prachasumran; dishes 45-250B; dinner) This place is as much a bar as a restaurant, as the three-page drinks list and free pool table attest. The French chef-owner whips up some swanky fa·ràng food, like red snapper with saffron, that belies the simple surrounds, plus there’s pub grub and Thai standards. He also takes a shot at Italian and Indian food, but with far less success.
Bualuang Restaurant (0 4322 2504; Th Rop Buengkaen Nakhon; dishes 55-800B; lunch & dinner) Ask a local out for dinner and they’ll probably want to go here. Perched on a pier over Beung Kaen Nakhon, it serves up a typical spread of Thai and Chinese dishes in a largely alfresco setting. Prices are high, but the food is good.
Chor Wang Puu (no roman-script sign; 0 4332 1178; Th Robbung; dishes 80-350B; lunch & dinner) This wood-and-thatch place resembles a fishing village and, in fact, they farm fish and frogs in the ponds over which the dining areas sit. Naturally, fish features prominently on the Thai, Isan and Chinese menu. It’s a beautiful spot at night, and you might even catch a little sunset view way back behind the lake. The little playground helps make it a family favourite.
Khon Kaen’s youthful population has spawned many good coffee shops. Our favourites are Hom Krun (0 4327 0547; Th Reunrom; dishes 35-129B; 9am-midnight, no coffee after 7pm), with its shady patio and full kitchen; and stylish Mud (0 4332 2131; 280/5 Th Glang Meuang; cappuccino 50B, dishes 60-140B; 10am-10pm), where most of the coffees, teas, juices, sandwiches and salads are organic. Both have free wi-fi.
Also recommended:
Chokdee (0 4324; 2252; Th Glang Meuang; dishes 16-22B; 24hr) A branch of the national chain, this dim-sum shop sits next to the air-con bus station.
Trajit (no roman-script sign; 0 4324 3610; 1/2 Th Glang Meuang; dishes 25-40B; breakfast & lunch) Serves Nang Rong–style ka mo (pork rump roast) in a cute, crumbling, piece-of-history shophouse.
Kosa Coffee Shop (0 4332 0320; 250-252 Th Si Chan; dishes 60-400B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Serves an excellent lunch buffet (229B) and the beer garden out the front is nice at night.
Pomodoro (0 4327 0464; off Th Prachasumran; dishes 130-280B; dinner) The best Italian in town, bar none.
Entertainment
Khon Kaen’s exuberant nightlife is centred on Th Prachasumran, where clubs and bars run wild to mild. Most get going around 10pm. The anchor is Rad Complex (0 4322 5987; Th Prachasumran; 9pm-2am), a multifaceted place with live music, DJs, karaoke, ‘coyote’ dancers and an alfresco restaurant. Nearby, U-Bar (0 4332 0434; off Th Prachasumran; 8pm-2am), almost exclusively the domain of Khon Kaen University students, is classier, but just as loud. Both sometimes book good bands from Bangkok.
Kosa Bowl (Th Si Chan; per game 50-65B; noon-midnight) has 30 lanes atop Tukcom shopping centre.
Shopping
With an excellent selection