Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [423]
The main shrine building, almost as bizarre as the sculpture park, is full of framed pictures of Hindu and Buddhist deities, temple donors and Luang Pu at various ages, plus smaller bronze and wooden figures of every description and provenance – guaranteed to throw an art historian into a state of disorientation. Luang Pu’s corpse lies under a glass dome ringed by flashing lights in the upper room.
To get to Sala Kaew Ku, board a bus heading to Phon Phisai or any other eastern destination and ask to get off at Wat Khaek (10B), as the park is also known; it’s about a five-minute walk from the highway. Chartered túk-túk cost 150B return with a one-hour wait – don’t pay up front, or it may turn into a one-way fare. Or you can reach it by bike in about 30 minutes; Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse distributes handy maps if you want to take the scenic route.
Wat Pho Chai
Luang Pho Phra Sai, a large Lan Xang–era Buddha, awash with gold, bronze and precious stones, sits at the hub of Wat Pho Chai (Th Phochai; 6am-7pm). The head of the image is pure gold, the body is bronze and the ùt·sà·nít (flame-shaped head ornament on a Buddha) is set with rubies. The altar on which the image sits features gilded wooden carvings and mosaics, while the ceiling bears wooden rosettes in the late-Ayuthaya style.
This was one of three similar statues, and the murals in the bòht depict their travels from the interior of Laos to the banks of the Mekong, where they were put on rafts. A storm sent one of the statues to the bottom of the river where it remains today. It was never recovered because, according to one monk at the temple, the naga like having it. The third statue, Phra Soem, is at Wat Patum Wanaram in Bangkok.
WAT NOEN PHRA NAO
A forest wát on the south side of town, Wat Noen Phra Nao (daylight hr) boasts a vipassana (insight meditation) centre on pleasant, tree-shaded grounds. It serves as a spiritual retreat for those facing personal crises (Westerners included, if they’re serious about meditation).
Some extremely ornate temple architect-ure, including perhaps the most rococo bell tower we’ve ever seen, stands in contrast with the usual ascetic tone of forest monasteries. There’s a Chinese cemetery here, and some of the statuary wouldn’t be out of place at Sala Kaew Ku.
WAT LAM DUAN
You can easily pick Wat Lam Duan (Th Rimkhong; daylight hr) out of the skyline because an immense Buddha image sits on top of the bòht. You’re welcome to climb up (shoes off) and gaze over the Mekong with it.
WAT TUNG SAWANG
The bòht at Wat Tung Sawang (Soi Silpakhom; daylight hr) is one of the city’s smallest, but the artistic flair put into the decoration makes it one of the most attractive. Nine Buddhist and Hindu sculptures sit on fanciful pedestals alongside it.
PHRA THAT NONG KHAI
Also known as Phra That Klang Nam (Holy Reliquary in the Middle of the River), this ruined Lao chedi is submerged in the middle of the Mekong and can only be seen in the dry season when the waters lower about 13m. The chedi was gobbled up by the meandering Mekong in the middle of the 18th century, and it toppled over in 1847. When the waters drop low enough in the dry season, coloured flags are fastened to it. Phra That La Nong, a replica erected on land, glows brightly at night.
MUSEUMS
Recently renovated and opened as a museum, the 1926 French Colonial Governor’s Mansion Museum (Th Meechai; admission free; 8.30am-6pm) has more shine outside than in. It looks lovely lit up at dusk.
The little Nong Khai Museum (0 4241 3658; Th Meechai; admission free; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri), in the old (1929) city hall has little more than photo-graphs, but the price is right.
VOLUNTEERING
While volunteer opportunities usually require a fairly long commitment, you can do a lot of good in just a couple of hours by stopping at one of the Sarnelli House (www.sarnelliorphanage.org) orphanages for HIV-positive children, run by Father Mike Shea, to play with the children on weekend mornings. Enquire at Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse