Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [425]
Khiang Khong Guesthouse (0 4242 2870; 541 Th Rimkhong; r 300-400B; ) Rooms in this newly built concrete block sparkle and shine, and you can lament the lack of history with river views from the 3rd-floor terrace or your private balcony. There’s free in-room (the signal is pretty weak in the back of the building) wi-fi.
Thai Nongkhai Guesthouse (0 4241 3155; www.thainongkhai.com; 1169 Th Banthoengjit; r 400-500B, ) The seven gleaming new rooms (the four pricier units are detached bungalows) in this backyard set-up are fairly humdrum, but the owners make it kind of homey. The wi-fi is free.
Thai-Laos Riverside Hotel (0 4246 0263; 51 Th Kaew Worawut; r 500-700B; ) Upkeep is lagging at this dowdy tour-bus favourite, but if you don’t mind a few tears in the carpets, you’ll get good views. The 700B rooms have their own little balconies on the riverfront face of the building, but all look at the water. And if you’re into tacky hotel clubs, you’ll find three of them here.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Pantawee Hotel (0 4241 1568; www.pantawee.com; 1049 Th Hai Sok; s 600-900B, d 700-1000B, q 1400-2200B; ) The efficiently run Pantawee is almost a village unto itself, with various lodging blocks plus a spa, travel agency and 24-hour restaurant. The rooms are reasonably priced (a tad on the high side for Nong Khai) and come with DVD players and internet-connected PCs. Free wi-fi flows throughout, including the flower-filled garden lounges.
Nong Khai Grand (0 4242 0033; www.nongkhaigrand.com; Hwy 212; r 1290-1700B, ste 2700-3700B; ) Tops in town, this slick, modern place is starting to show its age, but still has plenty of sparkle. A big hit with passing suits, ‘executive’ standards are maintained throughout. Swanky suites (usually available at 40% discount) are on offer for those after the Midas touch, but even the standard rooms are large and well-appointed.
Eating
For quick, colourful eats swing by the Hospital Food Court (no roman-script sign; Th Meechai; breakfast, lunch & dinner) where about a dozen cooks whip up the standards, or visit the night market (Th Prajak; 4-11pm) between Soi Cheunjit and Th Hai Sok. During the day, grilled fish reigns supreme at the lunch-only riverside restaurants (Th Rimkhong) tucked behind Tha Sadet Market.
Khrua Sukapap Kwan Im (0 4246 0184; Soi Wat Nak; dishes 30B; breakfast & lunch) The owners of this simple little vegetarian place make a mumsy fuss over fa·ràng diners. The food is Thai and Chinese standards (from a buffet counter and an English-language menu) plus some excellent juices.
Darika Bakery (0 4242 0079; 668-669 Th Meechai; dishes 30-60B; breakfast & lunch) If you’re an early riser, this spartan English-speaking outfit will be waiting for you from 5am with hearty egg-and-toast breakfasts, banana pancakes, Vietnamese-style baguette sandwiches and more.
Nung-Len Coffee Bar (08 3662 7686; 1801/2 Th Kaew Worawut; dishes 35-180B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) One of the friendliest places in Nong Khai, this petite place has good java and juices plus an eclectic menu of Thai and fa·ràng food, and even a few fusions of the two, like spaghetti fried chilli with chicken.
Daeng Namnuang (0 4241 1961; 526 Th Rimkhong; dishes 35-180B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This Vietnamese place has grown into an Isan institution and hordes of out-of-towners head home with car boots and carry-on bags (there’s an outlet at Udon Thani’s airport) stuffed with Vietnamese nam neu·ang (pork spring rolls). The kitchen operates as much like a factory as a restaurant; the food really is superb nonetheless.
Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse (0 4246 0717; off Th Kaew Worawut; dishes 40-130B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Mut Mee’s food is very popular, espec-ially the breakfasts, but keep in mind that the Thai dishes are toned down to European tastes. But whether you like it hot or not, you simply cannot beat this riverside location, and there’s a good selection of vegetarian dishes, like mushroom lâhp (a super-spicy meat salad originating from Laos).
Nagarina (0 4241 2211; dishes 40-250B; lunch & dinner) There’s no paucity