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( Map), facing the Lao island of Don Klang Khong, is a convenient staging post for those taking the river road (Rte 211) between Nong Khai and Loei. The Mekong dominates life here, but there are also some lovely waterfalls in the area. The largest is three-tiered Nam Tok Than Thip (admission free; daylight hr), 13km west of Sangkhom (2km off Rte 211). The lower level drops 30m and the second, easily reached via stairs, falls 100m. The 70m-top drop is only barely visible through the lush forest. Nam Tok Than Thong (admission free; daylight hr), 11km east of Sangkhom, is a wider but shorter drop with a swimmable pool at the bottom, although it dries up around April. The short nature trail takes you down by the Mekong. Than Thong is more accessible than Than Thip, but can be rather crowded on weekends and holidays.

The forest wát peering down on the town from the eastern hills, Wat Pa Tak Sua (daylight hr), lies about 3km away as the crow flies (ask someone to point you to the footpath used by the monks every morning), but it’s 19km to drive; the last 3km are on a dirt road. Take the turn-off across from Nam Tok Than Thong. It has the most amazing Mekong views we know of, and the sunset scene is wonderful in the summer months.

As the ever-smiling Buoy will tell you, Sangkhom’s veteran lodge, Bouy Guesthouse (0 4244 1065; Rte 211; r 190-200B; ), has just a few ‘simple huts’ (the cheaper ones sharing bathrooms), but they’re popular for good reason. They come with hammocks and wooden decks and the riverside location just west of town is wonderfully relaxing. Motorbike hire is 200B.

Poopae Ruenmaithai (0 4244 1088; Rte 211; r 500-1500B; ) offers some swankier digs 1.5km east of town. This gorgeous set-up, featuring wooden walkways and decorative stonework, should have made better use of the river views, though it will definitely satisfy those who demand a certain level of comfort. The cheapest rooms have a little Being John Malkovich about them, but most people will be able to stand up straight. The restaurant is good and there’s a four-person Jacuzzi for rent (200B per hour).

GETTING THERE & AWAY

There are usually five buses a day from Nong Khai (60B, three hours) and the earliest of those continues to Loei (70B, 3½ hours).

LOEI PROVINCE

Stretching south from the sleepy arc of the Mekong River near Chiang Khan to the vast mountain plateau of Phu Kradung National Park, Loei (which means ‘to the extreme’) is a diverse, beautiful province untouched by mass tourism, despite all it has to offer. This isn’t the wildest place in Thailand, but potholes definitely pepper the trail that will lead you from the hush of the region’s tranquil national parks (there are far more good ones than we can feature here) to the hubbub of Dan Sai’s annual Phi Ta Khon Festival. If Chiang Khan weren’t tucked away in such a remote corner of the country, it would probably be a bustling backpacker magnet.

The terrain here is mountainous and temp-eratures fluctuate from one extreme to the other – hotter than elsewhere in Thailand during the hot season and chillier during the cold season. This is the only province in Thailand where temperatures drop below 0°C, a fact the tourist brochures love to trumpet. In December and January the crisp air paints leaves red and yellow at high elevations, such as around Phu Kradung and Phu Reua.

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LOEI

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Arrive here after a sojourn in the region’s dreamy countryside and Loei, the capital city, is little more than a reminder that concrete and congestion still exist. Efforts to upgrade the town, including a large city-centre lake, have helped haul Loei out of the doldrums; but, as the TAT itself says: ‘the city of Loei has little to hold the traveller’s interest.’

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Information

A few internet cafes are spread around the city centre, while most of the banks are on or near Th Charoenrat, including Krung Thai Bank (Th Ua Ari; 8.30am-4.30pm), which offers exchange services and weekend hours.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; 0 4281 2812;