Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [436]
Sights & Activities
Behind the big white gate, Wat Phon Chai (Th Kaew Asa; daylight hr) plays a major role in the Phi Ta Khon festivities. The Dan Sai Folk Museum (admission free; 8.30am-4.30pm) is also on the grounds, and has a collection of costumes worn during the celebrations, a demonstration of how the masks are made and a 20-minute video from the festival.
Phra That Si Songrak (Rte 2113; 7am-5pm) is the most highly revered stupa in Loei Province. The whitewashed Lao-style chedi stands 30m high and was built in 1560–63 as a gesture of unity between the Lao kingdom of Wiang Chan (Vientiane) and the Thai kingdom of Ayuthaya in their resistance against the Burmese. A pavilion in front of it contains a very old chest that supposedly contains an even older carved stone Buddha about 76cm long. You can’t wear shoes, hats or the colour red, or carry food or open umbrellas if you climb up to the chedi. Down below is a modest museum (admission free; 8.30am-4pm) showing random artefacts donated by locals.
On a wooded hill overlooking Phra That Si Songrak, Wat Neramit Wiphatsana (daylight hr) is a gorgeous (it almost looks like a Buddhist-themed resort) meditation wát where most of the buildings are made of unplastered laterite blocks. Famous Thai temple muralist Pramote Sriphrom spent years painting images of jataka tales on the interior walls of the massive bòht, which also hosts a copy of Phitsanulok’s Chinnarat Buddha ( Click here). The wát is dedicated to the memory of the late Luang Pu Mahaphan (aka Khruba Phawana), a much-revered local monk.
Kawinthip Hattakham (0 4289 2339; 70/1 Th Kaew Asa; 6.30am-8pm) sells authentic Phi Ta Khon masks, plus a bevy of other festival-related souvenirs. It makes for a fun browse. It also has bike hire (100B per day).
Chateau de Loei (0 4280 9521; www.chateaudeloei.com; 8am-5pm), one of Thailand’s most respected vineyards, is 23km out of town on Rte 203 (at Km60). The winery released the first commercially produced Thai wine in 1995 and scooped a silver medal for its Chenin Blanc dessert wine in the 2004 International Wine & Spirits Competition. Visitors are welcome and you can taste its wines, grape juices and brandies back in the main building. There’s a restaurant and gift-gourmet shop on the main road.
Sleeping & Eating
As few people stay in Dan Sai outside the festival season, accommodation is limited.
Homestay (08 9077 2080; phitakhon@yahoo.com; per person 150-200B, per meal 50B) A couple of villages just outside town have been running a successful homestay program for many years, and the families dote on fa·ràng guests. When not at work (most of the English-speaking hosts are teachers) they’ll take you out to share typical daily activities. Everything can be arranged at Kawinthip Hattakham craft shop.
Dansai Resort Hotel (0 4289 2281; Rte 2013; r 300-450B; ) Dan Sai’s original hotel has ordinary but adequate rooms (those at the back are better), though the 300B versions don’t have hot water.
SB Resort Hotel (0 4289 1918; www.sbresort.net; Rte 2013; r 450-600B; ) Despite the fancy name, like the Dansai it’s just an ordinary hotel, though a newer and nicer one.
Phunacome (0 4289 2005; www.phunacomeresort.com; Rte 2013; r 3800-5500B; ) This new luxury resort makes the most of its country location, and the kitchen makes use of the organic rice and veggies grown on the grounds. Two styles of room line a row of ponds: standard hotel rooms and some cool wood-and-thatch Isan-inspired cottages. Both are plush and lovely, with nice views. The lobby has a library, massage service and restaurant with Thai and Western food. Their mascot is the buffalo, and two real ones roam grounds that also host several artistic renditions.
Im Un (no roman-script sign; 0 4289 1586; Rte 2013; dishes 30-150B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Sizzling Thai and Isan favourites, like gaang àh (jungle