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OTHER SIGHTS & Activities

Nakhon Phanom’s newest attraction is the Former Governor’s Residence Museum (08 5853 8503; Th Sunthon Wijit; admission free; 10am-7.30pm Wed-Sun), a recently restored c 1925 mansion that holds photos of Nakhon Phanom past and present and, out the back, displays about the Illuminated Boat Procession (see opposite).

The city’s old prison has been converted into Chom Khong Park (Th Ratchathan; admission free; 5am-8pm). Models of prisoners sit in some of the old cells and you can climb the guard towers.

If you like fish you’ll like Nakhon Phanom Freshwater Aquarium (0 4251 5312; Hwy 2033; admission 30B; 9am-4pm), which houses Mekong River species, including giant Mekong catfish (lah bèuk). It’s 5km west of town and 1km south of Hwy 22. Srng·ta·ou to Nakae (20B, 15 minutes) pass by.

The city runs an hour-long sunset cruise (08 6230 5560; per person 50B) along the Mekong on Thesaban 1, which docks across from the Indochina Market. Thai and Western snacks are served and, of course, there’s karaoke. It sails nightly around 5pm. You can charter the boat for 1000B.

From February to April Hat Thai Meuang (tourism boosters call it Hat Sai Thong: ‘Golden Sand Beach’) rises just south of the Viewkong Hotel.

Festivals

Nakhon Phanom is famous for its Illuminated Boat Procession (Lái Reua Fai), a modern twist on the ancient tradition of sending rafts loaded with food, flowers, and candles down the Mekong as offerings for the naga. Today’s giant bamboo rafts hold as many as 16,000 handmade lanterns, and recently some designers have added a touch of animation to the scenes. Boat races, music competitions and other festivities run for a week at the end of Ork Phansaa (the end of Buddhist Lent), but the boats are launched only on the night of the full moon. That morning, Phu Thai perform their ‘peacock dance’ in front of That Phanom ( Click here).

Sleeping

First Hotel (0 4251 1253; 16 Th Si Thep; r 160-300B; ) Has the cheapest beds in town, for good reason.

Grand Hotel (0 4251 1281; 210 Th Si Thep; r 190-320B; ) ‘Grand’ is a popular euphemism for ‘modest’ among Thailand’s budget hotels. This is no duff option though. While the interior is rather spartan, potted plants and animal sculptures bring a lick of colour, and the rooms are perfectly comfortable. A few of the cheapest even have hot water.

Windsor Hotel (0 4251 1946; 272 Th Bamrung Meuang; r 250-400B; ) Housed in a rather intimidating concrete block, this is nevertheless one of the friendlier options in town. The fan rooms are a bit noisy, but remain fair value, and even have a minifridge.

SP Residence (0 4251 3505; 193/1 Th Nittayo; r 450-800B; ) This well-run place has plain, but modern, comfortable rooms in a good location.

iHotel (0 4254 3355; Th Chayanghoon; r 450-800B; ) One of Isan’s most stylish hotels, the ‘i’ mixes good mattresses, ‘power showers’ (ground floor only), free wi-fi, a backyard garden and some artistic touches. If it wasn’t 5km out of town and right along the highway it would be Nakhon Phanom’s best choice.

Viewkong Hotel (0 4251 3564; www.viewkonghotel.com; 527 Th Sunthon Wijit; r 700-900B, ste 2600B; ) The town’s former chart-topping hotel has less pizzazz and more wear than the current champ (the Nakhon Phanom River View, 500m further downstream), but it’s priced much better and feels less cold. There’s a pleasant terrace overlooking the river and it has the expected business-class amenities, plus karaoke, massage and all the other things Thai travellers can’t live without. Riverview rooms cost no extra, so be sure to request one.

Eating

Downtown has a few fun restaurants and bars, most on or near Th Fuang Nakhon, including a couple of dinner-only joints with terraces along the Mekong. The balcony at the 1st-floor food court in the Indochina Market (Th Sunthon Wijit; breakfast, lunch & dinner) has choice seats that frame the mountain views. The city’s excellent night market (Th Fuang Nakhon; 4-9pm) rocks out a great variety of food, though there are few places to sit