Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [442]
Sleeping
Few tourists stick around town very long, so there are only a handful of sleeping options, and most are extremely old. During the That Phanom Festival in January/February rates soar and rooms are booked out well in advance.
Niyana Guesthouse (0 4254 0880; 65 Soi 33; r 120-160B) The town’s backpacker original was temporarily closed when we last stopped by as Niyana was occupying the airport with PAD demonstrators (see Click here), but it’s running again. It’s little more than someone’s house with an English school on the ground floor, with all the good and bad that goes with that. Rooms are spartan and bathrooms are shared, but the owner is a good source of local information. Bike hire costs 40B per day.
Chaivon Hotel (0 4254 1391; 38 Th Phanom Phanarak; r 200-300B; ) This green wooden hotel is almost the definition of shabby. It’s definitely not for everyone, but some people may enjoy a night here as it’s a genuine historic relic.
Saeng Thong Rimkhong Guesthouse (no roman-script sign; 0 4254 1397; 507 Th Rimkhong; r 250-400B; ) This so-so place just off the river steals the centre ground, with less sparkle than Kritsada and Sawatdee and less atmosphere than Niyana and Chaivon. Not all rooms are created equal, so you may want to have a look at a few before deciding. Newer rooms are planned.
Sawatdee Guesthouse (no roman-script sign; 08 1671 9717; r 400-500B; ) This new place, off Th Ratchadorn Utit in the modern part of town, has a motel-style strip of somewhat sterile but well-appointed rooms. The two 400B rooms are across the street.
Kritsada Rimkhong Resort (0 4254 0088; 90-93 Th Rimkhong; r 400-600B; ) More an eclectic hotel than a resort. Some of the rooms are plain while others are very attractive, but all are comfy and have lots of little extras including free wi-fi. If the English-speaking owner is around when you call, someone will pick you up at the bus station for free, otherwise a túk-túk should cost 30B.
Eating
Pat Thai Shop (0 4254 0366; 39 Th Phanom Phanarak; dishes 30B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This hole-in-the-wall spins out just a few simple stir-fries like râht nâh (noodles in gravy) or pàt prík bai gà prow (spicy stir-fry with basil leaves), and frankly they’re nothing special, but unlike the many similar places, the menu is in English. And the cooks are used to vegetarians.
That’s Good (08 6230 6068; 37 Th Phanom Phanarak; dishes 25-80B; dinner) We’re not sure how long a place this hip (relatively speaking) can survive in little That Phanom, but as long as it does, it’s a good spot for a coffee or beer after your meal.
Kitty (0 4254 0148; 419 Th Naa Talat; dishes 35-420B; lunch & dinner) For something almost fancy, try this open-fronted place popular with local big-wigs. There are classic album covers on the wall and a long list of Thai food (a few dishes are labelled in English) on the menu. Fish is the most popular pick, and Kitty’s the only place for steak.
Every evening a night market (4-10pm) takes over Th Robbung. It has a good variety of food, but few places to sit. Also, come nightfall, lots of small riverside eateries (Th Rimkhong), perched on stilts and ablaze in fairy lights, open their doors north of the promenade. For the most part, the biggest difference between them is the volume of the karaoke machine, so have a wander and pick your place.
Getting There & Away
From That Phanom’s new bus station, inconveniently located west of town, there are services to Ubon Ratchathani (ordinary/1st class 102/184B, 4½ hours, hourly) via Mukdahan (ordinary/1st class 28/50B, one hour), Udon Thani (ordinary/1st class 109/196B, four hours, five daily) via Sakon Nakhon (ordinary/1st class 38/68B, 1¼ hours, hourly) and Nakhon Phanom (ordinary/1st class 27/49B, one hour, five daily). You can also catch the Nakhon Phanom buses in front of the school on Hwy 212; or take one of the frequent srng·ta·ou (35B, 90 minutes,