Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [444]
WAT PHRA THAT NARAI CHENG WENG
About 5km west of town at Ban That, this wát (known as Phra That Nawaeng, a contraction of the words Narai Cheng Weng) has a 10th- to 11th-century Khmer prang in the early Bapuan style. Originally part of a Khmer-Hindu complex, the five-level sandstone prang is missing most of its top, but still features several lintels including a reclining Vishnu over its northern portico and a dancing Shiva over its eastern one. This is not a very impressive or evocative temple, but it’s the most complete Khmer ruin in the province.
To get here by public transport take srng·ta·ou 3 (10B) from near the market or catch it heading north on Th Ratpattana. Get off at Ban That Nawaeng market and walk 500m south.
OTHER SIGHTS
The city monument (Th Ratpattana) at the northwestern corner of town loosely resembles Vientiane’s Patuxai. The archlike structure consists of four thick cement pillars standing over a bowl filled with naga.
Across the park from the monument, the replica Sapan Kom (Khmer Bridge; Th Sai Sawang) lies along part of a Khmer road leading to Wat Phra That Narai Cheng Weng.
Along the eastern and northern edges of town is 123-sq-km Nong Han, Thailand’s largest natural lake, which is well known among Thais due to the legend (see boxed text, Click here) surrounding it. Fishermen, who tie up their boats behind Saphang Thong Park, will take you out sightseeing, including a stop to visit the monks on Ko Don Sawan (Paradise Island), the lake’s largest island. The going rate is around 500B; the Dusit Hotel can make arrangements (see right). Don’t copy the fishermen and swim in the lake: it’s infested with liver flukes, which can cause a nasty infection known as opisthorchiasis.
The freshwater aquarium (0 4271 1447; Th Sai Sawang; admission free; 8.30am-4.30pm) at the Sakon Nakhon Fishery Station displays fish from Nong Han, as well as the Mekong and Songkhram rivers.
Festivals
Ork Phansaa (the end of Buddhist Lent – also called the Buddhist Rains Retreat) in October or November is fervently celebrated in Sakon, with the carving and display of wax castles in Ming Meuang Field the highlight. The festival also features demonstrations of moo·ay boh·rahn, the old and more dangerous style of Thai boxing.
Sleeping
Araya 2 (0 4271 1054; 354 Th Prem Prida; r 150-250B) This basic concrete bolt-hole is creeping towards decrepit, but it won’t break your budget.
LP Mansion (no roman-script sign; 0 04271 5356; Th Charoen Meuang; r 230-320B; ) LP is no beauty queen, but for just a few baht more it takes the tiara from Araya. Rooms are simple but big and bright and even have minifridges.
Dusit Hotel (0 4271 1198; www.dusitsakhon.com; 1784 Th Yuwaphattana; r 350-900B, ste 3500B; ) This reborn old-timer has the loveliest lobby and cheeriest staff in town. The more you pay the more atmosphere you get, but each price category offers good value and all rooms have free wi-fi. The restaurant is good and the owner, Fiat, is a great source of local info.
NH The Elegant Hotel (0 4271 3338; www.nhonghanhotel.com; 163/32 Th Robmuang; s/d 600/650B; ) Smart sums it up better than elegant, but that’s really beside the point. What matters is that these newly built, well-appointed rooms are rock solid for the price, which includes breakfast and dinner. Its biggest drawback is the noncentral location, but there’s a great coffee shop across the street.
MJ The Majestic (0 4273 3771; 399/2 Th Khu Meuang; r 440-1440B, ste 2400-3440B; ) This business-class property is the reigning champ as most expensive hotel in town. The cheapest rooms are bigger than Dusit and Elegant, but not better. It’s worth considering, however, if you want the full gamut of night-time entertainment (cocktail lounge, massage, snooker, karaoke) that those quieter choices can’t provide.
Eating
Sakon Nakhon’s biggest night market, the Night Plaza (Th Khu Meuang), has an excellent selection of food, but it’s mostly bagged up for takeaway and the action starts to fade around 8pm. If you