Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [448]
Festivals
The Mukdahan Festival, held either in December or January in the field fronting the sh·lah glahng, is a chance to see the dances and clothing of Mukdahan’s eight ethnic groups.
Sleeping
Bantomkasen Hotel (no roman-script sign; 0 4261 1235; 25/2 Th Samut Sakdarak; r 150-300B; ) From the outside this place looks just like your usual concrete block, but louvered doors and wooden floors give it some back-in-the-day charm. Best of all, hot water and sit-down toilets start at just 170B and air-con at 250B.
Kimjekcin 2 Hotel (0 4263 1310; 95/1 Th Phitak Phanomkhet; r 280-380B; ) This travelling-salesperson’s favourite is completely ordinary, except for the low prices, which is why it’s often full. Rooms at Kimjekcin 1 across the street are 30B cheaper, and about that much scruffier, though the air-con rooms at the back do look out over a little lake.
Ban Rim Suan (0 4263 2980; Th Samut Sakdarak; r 330B; ) This is the best budget deal in the city. Rooms certainly aren’t stylish, but the owners have made some effort to liven things up. It’s a tad south of the centre, but that makes it more convenient for dinner and drinks along the river. It offers free wi-fi.
Submukda Grand Hotel (0 4263 3444; 72 Th Samut Sakdarak; r 400-500B; ) This shiny new tower was erected in 2006 to cash in on the expected rise in tour-bus business that the bridge might bring. Rooms and services are similar to Ban Rim Suan, but you can squeeze out a river view from upper-floor balconies.
Ploy Palace Hotel (0 4263 1111; www.ploypalace.com; 40 Th Phitak Phanomkhet; r 1050-1800B, ste 5500B; ) Rooms at this executive sleepeasy are dated, but good value. There’s plenty of marble and wood for that ‘swanky’ feel, a decent spread of creature comforts (including in-room wi-fi, a sauna, swimming pool and rooftop restaurant) and some friendly staff. For something out of the ordinary, ask for the 8th- and 9th-floor rooms with beehives outside the windows.
Eating
Dining downtown is pretty pedestrian, but head out along the river and you’ll find many good choices: most specialising in fish, of course.
Night market (Th Song Nang Sathit; 4pm-10pm) Mukdahan’s good night market has all the Isan classics, like gài yâhng, sôm·am and deep-fried insects, but you’ll also find lots of Vietnamese choices including òr éea (spring rolls), either sòht (fresh) or tôrt (fried).
Kufad (no roman-script sign; 0 4261 2252; 36-37 Th Samut Sakdarak; dishes 25-100B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This simple Vietnamese cafe is rightly quite popular and a good choice for breakfast. The picture menu takes the guesswork out of ordering, but leaves you clueless on the prices.
Wine Wild Why? (0 4263 3122; 11 Th Samron Chaikhongthi; dishes 40-150B; lunch & dinner) Housed in an atmospheric wooden building next to the river, this relaxing little spot serves delicious Thai and Isan food and has bags of character, though the wine list is history. The sociable owners, transplants from Bangkok, just add to the charm.
Bao Phradit (no roman-script sign; 0 4263 2335; 123/4 Th Samron Chaikhongthi; dishes 40-200B; lunch & dinner) It’s a bit of a yomp south of the centre, but this is a real Isan restaurant where many ingredients are gathered from the forest and hŭa èt yâhng (duck-head BBQ) and gaang aòrm wi (curry made with young rattan) are as common as steamed fish or pork fried rice. It’s all served on a peaceful riverside deck. This is an English-free zone, so try to bring a Thai friend out here so you can enjoy the full culinary experience.
Riverside Restaurant (0 4261 1705; 103/4 Th Samron Chaikhongthi; dishes 45-150B; lunch & dinner) About 200m before Bao Phradit, this popular spot offers great views from a garden terrace and has tanks filled with examples of the kinds of