Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [450]
After another 10km (turn at the big orange arrow), where the greenish Chanot River meets the muddy Mekong (if you’re lucky, you’ll see men unloading their fish traps here), is Wat Manophirom (daylight hr), one of Mukdahan Province’s oldest temples. The original bòht, now a wí·hhn, was built in 1756 in Lan Xang style with an elaborately carved wooden facade and large painted eave brackets. It holds many ancient Buddha images, including eight carved into an elephant tusk.
Wat Srimahapo (daylight hr), sometimes called Wat Pho Si, is another 4.5km north in Ban Wan Yai. You’d never expect its tiny bòht, built in 1916, to be worth a look, but inside, elaborately carved beams hold up the tin roof and interesting naive murals cover the walls. The Buddhas that greet you once had holes cut over their hearts to receive blessings, but they have since been filled. The monks’ residence is classical French style and a couple of longboats are stored here between races.
After a further 7km you’ll pass the modern, glass-walled Our Lady of the Martyrs of Thailand Shrine (8.30am-4.30pm, 7am Mass on Sun), locally called Wat Song Khan and often incorrectly described as the largest church in Southeast Asia. It was built in 1995 to commemorate seven Thai Catholics killed by the police in 1940 for refusing to renounce their faith. Wax sculptures of the martyrs and their ashes lie under glass at the back.
Just beyond the church is Kaeng Kabao, a stretch of rocky shore and islets, turning to rapids when submerged during the rainy season. A variety of restaurants have set up on and along the river here, making this a good place to refuel before heading back to Mukdahan, or continuing on for another 20km to That Phanom. At the end of the dry season, from March to May, beaches emerge and people come to swim and ride inner-tubes.
Amphoe Nong Sung
Whether you want to learn about a different culture or just want to delve into rural Thailand, Nong Sung District in Mukdahan’s far west is a great place to do it.
Mukdahan Province has a large Phu Thai population. Of all Isan’s minority groups, the Phu Thai (who trace their heritage to southern China, near the Laos and Vietnam border) are known for having clung closest to their culture. Most villagers here still don traditional duds for festivals and funerals and their children do the same at school on Thursdays. The Phu Thai dialect dominates, so no matter how well you speak Thai or Isan, expect some verbal trip-ups here.
There are many silk- and cotton-weaving villages out here. Most women make the usual mát·mèe designs, which is what the market demands, but genuine Phu Thai clothes and fabrics are always available if you ask.
THAI HOUSE-ISAAN
This friendly Australian-owned guesthouse (08 7065 4635; www.thaihouse-isaan.com; r 700-1500B; ) is a great place to dip your toes into village life without having to rough it. The nightly price includes a visit to the family farm, a foraging excursion in the forest and (for a donation direct to the local school) a children’s dance performance. Day tours around the region cost 800B to 900B per person (minimum two) or you can hire a bicycle (120B per day) or motorcycle (500B per day) and see things for yourself. The rooms are comfortable and well appointed, especially the 1500B Thai-style ‘chalet’, and the mostly organic menu (70B to 295B) covers Thai tastes and your favourites from home. If you want, you can join Noi in the kitchen for a cooking lesson. Day guests are welcome.
Thai House Isaan is 60km out of Mukdahan on Hwy 2042. Buses between Mukdahan and Khon Kaen will drop you in Ban Kham Pok (from Mukdahan 50B, 70 minutes, every half-hour until 4.30pm).
BAN PHU
Ban Phu, 6km south of Nong