Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [453]
ROI ET
pop 36,000
There has been a settlement at this spot for at least 2800 years, making this one of Isan’s oldest cities. At one point, legend says, it had 11 city gates, and in ancient writing ‘11’ was expressed as ‘10-plus-1’. Somehow this morphed into the city’s name, which means ‘one hundred one’.
Except for extensive stretches of the old city moat, Roi Et’s long history hasn’t followed it into the 21st century. Still, the city retains a charm and sense of identity all its own. You can’t call Roi Et sleepy, but, perhaps taking its cue from the walking Buddha on the island in the city-centre lake, it does seem to move to its own urban beat.
Roi Et Province is known for the crafting of the quintessential Isan musical instrument, the kaan, a kind of Pan pipe. Many say the best kaan are made in the village of Si Kaew (15km northwest of Roi Et), though you can buy them (and other traditional musical instruments) at several shops in the city on Th Phadung Phanit.
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Information
Banks are scattered around the centre, with several at the north end of Th Suriyadet Bamrung, which also holds the main post office and police station. Internet cafes aren’t too common, but there are a few near the Plaza Department Store.
Sights
The enormous standing Buddha towering above Roi Et’s squat skyline is Phra Phuttha Ratana Mongkon Mahamuni (Luang Po Yai for short) at Wat Burapha (Th Phadung Phanit; daylight hr). Despite being of little artistic significance, it’s hard to ignore. Head to toe he stands 59.2m, and from the ground to the tip of the ùt·sà·nít it’s 67.8m.
Wat Neua (Th Phadung Phanit; daylight hr), in the northern quarter of town, has an ancient ambience. It’s known for its 1200-year-old chedi (Phra Satup Jedi) from the Dvaravati period, which has an unusual four-cornered bell-shaped form that’s rare in Thailand. Around the bòht are a few old Dvaravati sir·mah and outside the main compound is an inscribed pillar, erected by the Khmers when they controlled this area during the 11th and 12th centuries.
Walking paths criss-cross the attractive, shady island in Beung Phlan Chai and attract the usual crowd of doting couples, joggers and picnickers. The well-known walking Buddha statue is on the north side and the lak meuang (city pillar) is to the south; many more monuments and interesting statuary stand between.
The interesting Roi Et National Museum (0 4351 4456; Th Ploenchit; admission 100B; 9am-4pm Wed-Sun) gives equal billing to ancient artefacts unearthed in the district and Isan cultural displays. The 3rd floor shows materials used to produce a rainbow of colours in natural-dyed fabrics.
There are a few odd-looking fish in the little Roi Et Aquarium (0 4351 1286; Th Sunthornthep; admission free; 8.30am-4.30pm Wed-Sun), and the walk-through tunnel is a nice touch.
Sleeping & Eating
Phrae Thong Hotel (0 4351 1127; 45-47 Th Ploenchit; r 180-350B) Insomniacs will bemoan the noise drifting up from the road (and perhaps the adjoining quarters since it offers a three-hour rate), but this no-frills spot has tidy little rooms with plenty of natural light.
Saithip Hotel (0 4351 1742; 133 Th Suriyadet Bamrung; r 240-320B; ) The architect tried, and failed, to splash a smidgen of glamour onto this simple place, but take a room here and your baht will be well spent; and you’ll even get a real sit-down toilet.
Poon Petch Sportclub (0 4351 6391; 52 Th Robmung; r 370-438B; ) This newly built place is rather institutional, but the sparkling-clean rooms come with refrigerator and balconies.
Phetcharat Garden Hotel (0 4351 9000; www.petcharatgardenhotel.com; Th Chotchaplayuk; r 540-700B, ste 1740B; ) Some genuinely chic sty-ling earns this attractive place several gold stars. The open-air lobby showcases serene East-meets-West decor, with wooden shutters and tall ceilings, and the immaculate staff (the men sport cool trousers) are tirelessly attentive. The rooms don’t really