Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [462]
With rapid development comes challenges. Hua Hin has witnessed the growth of a small sex industry, and the fishing-village ambience of the old piers has largely been swallowed by hotels, restaurants and tailor shops. Development has encroached onto government land, and trying to spot the sea is a frustrating exercise along many parts of the beach road.
Despite the development Hua Hin is bravely clinging to the beachside atmosphere that kicked things off back in 1922. Compared to Pattaya, the other main beach destination near Bangkok, Hua Hin is (relatively) serene, and is a favourite with families and older travellers. Don’t come looking for a party-at-all-costs backpacker scene. Instead you can fill your time with a game of golf or go horseback riding on the beach. After dark there’s a cosmopolitan restaurant scene to explore, rustic seafood restaurants on the pier to visit, or the simple culinary charms of one of Thailand’s best night markets to sample. The city’s 5km of beaches are the cleanest they’ve been for many years, swimming is safe, and Hua Hin continues to enjoy some of the peninsula’s driest weather.
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Orientation
From afar, Hua Hin’s towering hotels make this resort town look like nothing but row upon row of high-rises. But smaller guesthouses and outdoor restaurants line the waterfront area, and little soi veer off concealing more guesthouses, lively bars and travel agencies. The backbone of the tourist centre is Th Naresdamri, which is crammed with souvenir stalls, persistent tailors and classy restaurants. If you lose your way, look for the Hilton Hotel – it makes a good landmark as it usually peeps above the smaller buildings in the centre. Th Naresdamri is a lively place and if you want some quiet time it may be best to stay elsewhere.
The best beach is in front and south of the Sofitel resort. This pleasant stretch of sand is broken up by round, smooth boulders (Hua Hin means ‘stone head’) and is ideal for year-round swimming. The train station lies at the western end of town and features a beautifully restored royal waiting room. The airport (www.huahinairport.com) is 6km north of town.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Bookazine (0 3251 3060; 122 Th Naresdamri; 9am-10pm) Attached to a Kodak store, this has a few magazines and books in English.
Megabooks (0 3253 2071; 166 Th Naresdamri; 9am-10pm) Crammed full of new titles in English, including Lonely Planet guides.
EMERGENCY
Tourist police (0 3251 5995, emergency 1155; Th Damnoen Kasem) At the eastern end of the street.
INTERNET ACCESS
Internet access is available all over Hua Hin, in guesthouses and cafes.
Cups & Comp (0 3253 1119; 144/2 Th Chomsin; per hr 40B; 9am-midnight) Has internet, printing, faxing and overseas calls.
Sidewalk Café (0 8438 5518-7; Soi Selakam; 8.30am-1am) Has a free wi-fi network.
World News Coffee (0 3253 2475; Th Naresdamri; per hr 40B; 8am-11pm) Has fast internet connection in air-con comfort.
INTERNET RESOURCES
www.huahinafterdark.com A good resource for night-time shenanigans.
MEDIA
Free maps, pamphlets and brochures can be found in restaurants and hotels.
Hua Hin Observer (www.observergroup.net) A free, home-grown, expat-published magazine with features in English and German. Available at most hotels around town, it contains info on dining, culture and entertainment.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Hospital San Paolo (0 3253 2576; 222 Th Phetkasem) Just south of town with emergency facilities.
MONEY
There are exchange