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By Root 4450 0

Th Phetkasem; 3 nights from US$2070; ) Set on a private lake 3.5km south of town, Chiva-Som is the ultimate hideaway for overworked, overstressed (and just maybe overpaid) high-flying business folk and celebrities. The name means ‘Haven of Life’ in Thai-Sanskrit, and the staff of 200 fuse Eastern and Western approaches to health with planned nutrition, step and aqua aerobics, and Thai, Swedish or underwater massage. Rates include three meals per day along with health and fitness consultations, massage and all other activities. One-week, 10-day and two-week packages are also available, including specialist detox and fitness programs.

Eating

One of Hua Hin’s major attractions is the inexpensive Chatchai Market in the centre of town, where vendors gather nightly to cook fresh seafood for hordes of hungry Thais. It’s also excellent for Thai breakfasts – there’s very good jóhk and kôw ôm (both rice soups). Freshly fried ah·tôrng·gŏh (Chinese doughnuts in the Hua Hin style – small and crispy, not oily) cost 3B for three. A few vendors also serve hot soy milk in bowls (5B) – break a few ah·tôrng·gŏh into the soy milk for an authentic local breakfast. Starting at 5pm, there is a bustling night market along Th Dechanuchit. The food stalls are being outnumbered by DVD stalls and T-shirt vendors, but it’s still a buzzy scene. If you’re after 100% authentic eats, check out the food stalls that set up around 5pm off Th Chomsin.

The best seafood in Hua Hin is lah sm·lee (cotton fish or kingfish), lah grà·pong (perch), lah mèuk (squid), hŏy má·laang pôo (mussels) and oo (crab). Fresh seafood is all over town, but the concentration of wharfside outdoor seafood restaurants is on Th Naresdamri. On the beach you can order a cold Singha and cracked crab without leaving your deckchair.

Chalasai (7 Th Naletmanley; mains 50-120B; 9am-9pm) With a small patio and a seaside location, Chalasai (no roman-script sign – it’s across from Monsoon) doesn’t need to put any energy into ambience. Instead, it puts it all into the delicious, cheap Thai seafood.

Sidewalk Café (0 8438 5518-7; Soi Selakam; coffee 50B, breakfast 70-130B; 8.30am-1am) Welcoming owner Tim advertises ‘probably the best coffee in town’, and we have to concede that he’s probably right. Also excellent are the rich scrambled eggs and fresh-squeezed juice. When we visited, he was busy readying the cafe for an evening bar – we expect that when it opens you’ll find excellent company in a mellow setting.

World News Coffee (0 3253 2475; 130/2 Th Naresdamri; dishes 70-130B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This Starbucks-esque cafe serves Western breakfasts, including bagels, croissants and lots of different coffees. You can surf the web for 40B per hour and there are magazines and newspapers to complement your first cup of the day.

Moon Smile (Th Phunsuk; dishes 80-200B; lunch & dinner) The best in an enclave of well-priced Thai restaurants on Th Phunsuk that will respect your request for ‘Thai spicy, please’. Try the grilled beef and eggplant salad. A few doors up, Platoo is another good choice.

Bamboo (08 9164 3526; 27/1 Th Dechanuchit; dishes 80-210B; 9am-1am) Though the name has changed from the beloved Elmar’s (the old sign still hung outside when we visited), Bamboo strives to carry on the 15-year tradition of Elmar’s excellent European dishes and comfort food. Sample some goulash (125B) or Wiener schnitzel (210B).

Maha Raja (0 3253 0347; 25 Th Naresdamri; dishes 90-200B; lunch & dinner) Indian cuisine usually travels well and this reasonably priced shrine to Bollywood bling is no exception.

Monsoon (0 3253 1062; 62 Th Naresdamri; dishes 120-300B, afternoon tea 120B; 2pm-midnight) An excellent wine list and mood lighting make this Vietnamese restaurant, located in a lovingly restored two-storey teak house, Hua Hin’s most romantic (and expensive) spot. There’s also Thai and European food, and you can treat yourself to afternoon tea from 3pm.

Delizie Italian Delicatessen (0 3253 0192; 1/13 Th Sasong; dishes 160-380B; 9am-9pm) Pick out your olives and salami, grab some pesto and baguettes,