Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [469]
Because the park is at the intersection of the East Asian and Australian flyways, as many as 300 migratory and resident bird species have been recorded here, including yellow bitterns, cinnamon bitterns, purple swamphens, water rails, ruddy-breasted crakes, bronze-winged jacanas, grey herons, painted storks, whistling ducks, spotted eagles and black-headed ibises. The park contains Thailand’s largest freshwater marsh (along with mangroves and mudflats), and is one of only three places in the country where the purple heron breeds.
Waterfowl are most commonly seen in the cool season. Encroachment by shrimp farmers in the vicinity has sadly destroyed substantial portions of mangroves and other wetlands, thus depriving the birds of an important habitat. November to March are the best waterfowl-watching months. The birds come from as far as Siberia, China and northern Europe to winter here. You can hire a boat in the village of Khao Daeng for a cruise (400B, 45 minutes) along the canal in the morning or afternoon to spot them. Before heading out, chat with your prospective guide to see how well they speak English. Better guides will know the English names of common waterfowl and point them out to you.
Sleeping & Eating
Along with camping and bungalows, there are also a few private resort-style accommodation options.
Royal Forestry Department (0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th; campsite per person 30B, bungalows 5-6 people 1200-1400B, 6-9 people 1600-2200B) The forestry department hires out bungalows at Hat Laem Sala and at the visitors centre near the Khao Daeng viewpoint. You can pitch a tent at campsites near the Khao Daeng viewpoint, Hat Laem Sala or Hat Sam Phraya. There are basic restaurants at all these locations.
Dolphin Bay Resort (0 3255 9333; www.dolphinbayresort.com; 227 Mu 4, Phu Noi; r & bungalows from 1490B; ) Choose between hotel-style rooms or well-appointed bungalows at this family-friendly place with two large pools and an excellent restaurant. A wide range of trips is on offer to nearby islands and the national park. From February to May pink dolphins are sometimes seen off the beach.
Long Beach Inn (0 3255 9068; www.longbeach-thailand.com; 223/4 Mu 4, Phu Noi; r 1950B; ) A short walk from the eponymous Long Beach, but comfortable with air-con rooms in new villas around a pretty pool.
Brassiere Beach (08 1734 4343; www.brassierebeach.com; 210 Mu 5, Cosy Beach; villas 4200-9425B; ) Nine stunning Mexican-style villas have (white)washed ashore at a private cove, and the funky owners have equipped them with retro furniture, CD players and playful names like La Perla and Wacoal. Brassiere Beach’s uniqueness deserves your support.
Getting There & Away
The park is about 40km south of Hua Hin, and best visited by car. From Hua Hin, take Hwy 4 (Th Phetkasem) to Pranburi. In Pranburi, turn left at the main intersection, drive 2km, stay right at the fork in the road, and go another 2km. At the police substation, turn right. From there, it’s 19km to the park’s entrance and then another 14km to the headquarters at Hat Laem Sala. If you’re trying to reach the park from the south, there’s an entrance off Hwy 4 – turn right at highway marker 286.5, where there’s a sign for the park, then drive another 13km to the headquarters at Ban Khao Daeng.
If you don’t have your own wheels, catch a bus or train to Pranburi and then a sŏrng·ta·ou (50B, every half-hour between 8am and 4pm) to Bang Pu, the small village inside the park. From Bang Pu you can walk to Hat Laem Sala or charter a boat (250B return, 15 minutes).
You can also hire a sŏrng·ta·ou (350B to 500B) or a motorcycle taxi (250B) from Pranburi all the way to the park. Be sure to mention you want to go to the ù·tá·yahn hàang châht (national park) rather than Ban Khao Sam Roi Yot. Transport can also be arranged at travel agencies in Hua Hin (Click here), most of which also run tours. Hua Hin Adventure Tour (0 3253 0314; www.huahinadventuretour.com) has the best selection of more intrepid activities.
PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN
pop 27,700