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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [481]

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Samui, which means that the competition for passengers is fierce. Unlike Bangkok, cabs will refuse to use their meters so you must always negotiate your price before stepping into a cab. A 35B taxi ride in Bangkok will probably set you back about 350B on Samui. It’s a flagrant crime, but there’s not much you can do other than taking a srng·ta·ou (also spelt swngthew) instead.

Take care when making train and bus reservations: bookings are sometimes not made at all, or the bus turns out to be far inferior to the one expected. In another scam involving air tickets, agents claim that the economy class seating is fully booked and force tourists to book in business class. When the customer boards the plane, they find out that they’ve been allotted an economy seat but paid for a first-class ticket.

Sights

Even though the island has over 500 resorts, there are still some interesting things hidden amongst the island’s three million coconut palms.

Ko Samui is one of Thailand’s premiere beach destinations and there’s a reason why Chaweng is the most popular spot – it’s the longest and most beautiful beach on the island. The sand is powder soft and the water is surprisingly clear, considering the number of boats and bathers. Picture opps are best from the southern part of the beach, with stunning views of the hilly headland to the north.

At the southern end of Lamai, the second-largest beach, you’ll find the infamous Hin Ta and Hin Yai ( Map) stone formations (also known as Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks). These genitalia-shaped rocks provide endless mirth to giggling Thai tourists. Hua Thanon, just beyond, is home to a vibrant Muslim community, and their anchorage of high-bowed fishing vessels is a veritable gallery of intricate designs.

Although the northern beaches have coarser sand and aren’t as striking as the beaches in the east, they have a laid-back vibe and stellar views of Ko Pha-Ngan. Bo Phut stands out with its charming Fisherman’s Village: a collection of narrow Chinese shophouses that have been transformed into trendy resorts and boutique hotels.

Many visitors spend the day on the wild, rugged beaches of Ang Thong Marine Park ( Click here). This stunning archipelago might just have the most beautiful islands in all of Thailand.

WATERFALLS

At 30m, Nam Tok Na Muang ( Map) is the tallest waterfall on Samui and lies in the centre of the island about 12km from Na Thon. The water cascades over ethereal purple rocks, and there’s a great pool for swimming at the base. This is the most scenic, and somewhat less frequented, of Samui’s falls. There are two other waterfalls in the vicinity; a smaller waterfall called Na Muang 2, and recently improved road conditions have also made it possible to visit the high drop at Nam Tok Wang Saotong. These chutes are situated just north of the ring road near Hua Thanon.

Nam Tok Hin Lat ( Map), near Na Thon, is worth visiting if you have an afternoon to kill before taking a boat back to the mainland. After a mildly strenuous hike over streams and boulders, reward yourself with a dip in the pool at the bottom of the falls. Keep an eye out for the Buddhist temple that posts signs with spiritual words of moral guidance and enlightenment. Sturdy shoes are recommended.

WÁT

For temple enthusiasts, Wat Laem Sor ( Map), at the southern end of Samui near Ban Phang Ka, has an interesting, highly venerated old Srivijaya-style stupa. At Samui’s northern end, on a small rocky island linked by a causeway, is Wat Phra Yai (Temple of the Big Buddha; Map). Erected in 1972, the modern Buddha (sitting in the Mara posture) stands 15m high and makes an alluring silhouette against the tropical sky and sea. Nearby, a new temple, Wat Plai Laem ( Map), features an enormous 18-armed Buddha.

On the eastern part of Samui, near the waterfalls of the same name, Wat Hin Lat ( Map; 0 7742 3146) is a meditation temple that teaches daily vipassana (Buddhist meditation) courses. Several temples have the mummified remains of pious monks including Wat Khunaram ( Map), which is south of Rte 4169 between Th Ban Thurian

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