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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [483]

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are also available so you can practise at home.

The Health Oasis Resort ( Click here) offers one- to eight-day courses and certification in Thai and Swedish massage, aromatherapy, reiki, meditation and yoga for between 5500B and 9000B. The length and tuition of all courses can be adjusted to suit the individual.

Volunteering

Donations of time and/or money are hugely appreciated at the aptly named Dog Rescue Centre Samui (0 7741 3490; www.samuidog.org). The organisation has played an integral role in keeping the island’s dog population under control through an active spaying and neutering program. The centre also vaccinates dogs against rabies. Volunteers are always needed to take care of the pooches at either of the kennel/clinics (located in Chaweng and Taling Ngam). Call the centre for volunteering details or swing by the Wave Samui (opposite) for additional info.

Click here and Click here for more information about volunteering in Thailand.

Sleeping

‘Superior’, ‘standard’, ‘deluxe’, ‘standard deluxe’, ‘deluxe superior’, ‘superior standard’ – what does it all mean? Trying to decode Samui’s obnoxious hotel lingo is like trying to decipher the ancient Mayan language (it can’t be done). The island’s array of sleeping options is overwhelming – we’ve compiled a list of our favourites, but the following inventory is by no means exhaustive.

If you’re looking to splurge, there is definitely no shortage of top-end resorts sporting extravagant bungalows, charming spas, private infinity pools and first-class dining. Bo Phut, on the island’s northern coast, has a charming collection of boutique lodging – the perfect choice for midrange travellers. Backpack-toting tourists will have to look a little harder, but budget digs do pop up once in a while along all of the island’s beaches.

Private villa services have become quite popular in recent years. Rental companies often advertise in the various tourist booklets that circulate on the island.

This large section is organised as follows: we start on the popular east coast with Chaweng and Lamai, then move anticlockwise around the island covering the smaller beaches. These tinier areas are grouped according to location – Bo Phut and Choeng Mon, for example, are subcategories under ‘Northern Beaches’, and so forth.

CHAWENG

Packed end-to-end with hotels and bungalows, this beach is the eye of the tourist storm. The main street in central Chaweng feels like a nondescript soi (lane) in the heart of Bangkok. Despite the chaos, there’s a striking stretch of beach, and most resorts are well protected from street noise. In the last couple of years, the beach has experienced a bit of a renaissance – new budget spots are opening their doors (although prices are still a bit high relative to the rest of the island), and previously derelict areas are getting facelifts. At the south end of the beach, a small headland separates a sliver of sand (called Chaweng Noi) from the rest of the hustle.

Budget

Green Guest House ( Map; 0 7742 2611; www.greenguestsamui.com; r 400-1000B; ai) If penny-pinching is your game, you won’t find anything cheaper than Green, although there isn’t much in the way of atmosphere…

Wave Samui ( Map; 0 7723 0803; www.thewavesamui.com; r from 400B; ) The only place in Chaweng with a true backpacker vibe, the Wave is a friendly spot with a bright blue library-cum-restaurant and stack of well-maintained bedrooms upstairs. Book ahead – this place is popular!

Lucky Mother ( Map; 0 7723 0931; r & bungalows 500-1500B; ) First, let’s take a moment to giggle at the resort’s name. OK, now we can appreciate the old utilitarian huts, a dying breed in Chaweng. For those wanting hot showers and air-con, modern hotel rooms are also available, but most of them look out onto a parking lot.

P Chaweng ( Map; 0 7723 0684; r 700B; ) This cheapie doesn’t even pretend to be close to the beach, but the pink-tiled rooms are spacious and squeaky clean (minus a couple of bumps and bruises on the wooden furniture). Pick a room facing away from the street – it seems a tad too easy for someone

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