Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [485]
Dara Samui ( Map; 0 7723 1323; www.darasamui.com; r & bungalows from 8160B; ais) Inserted in the middle of Chaweng’s seamless chain of accommodation, Dara can feel a tad cramped but the rooms are elegant and the pool area looks like a scene from a Rudyard Kipling novel.
Centara Grand ( Map; 0 7723 0500; www.centralhotelsresorts.com; r 8900-19,500B; ais) Centara is a massive, manicured compound in the heart of Chaweng, but the palm-filled property is so large that you can safely escape the streetside bustle. Rooms are found in a hotel-like building that is conspicuously Western in theme and decor. Grown-ups can escape to the spa, or one of the four restaurants, and leave the children at the labyrinth of swimming pools under the watchful eye of an in-house babysitter.
Library ( Map; 0 7742 2407; www.thelibrary.name; bungalows 9000-12,000B; ais) This place is too cool for school, which is ironic since it’s called ‘The Library’. The entire resort is a sparkling white mirage accented with black trimming and slatted curtains. Besides the futuristic iMac computer in each page (rooms are called ‘pages’ here), our favourite feature is the large monochromatic wall art – it glows brightly in the evening and you can adjust the colour depending on your mood. Life-size statues are engaged in the act of reading, and if you too feel inclined to pick up a book, the on-site library houses an impressive assortment of colourful art and design books. The large rectangular pool is not to be missed – it’s tiled in piercing shades of red, making the term ‘bloodbath’ suddenly seem appealing.
LAMAI
Ten years ago, people in the know used to say ‘skip Chaweng and head to Lamai’, but these days Lamai has become the island’s has-been and the unofficial HQ of Samui’s girly bar scene. South of Lamai, Hua Thanon is a small, quieter beach with a couple of standout resorts.
Budget & Midrange
New Hut ( Map; 0 7723 0437; newhut@hotmail.com; Lamai North; huts 200-500B) New Hut is a rare beachfront cheapie with tiny-but-charming A-frame huts. The wooden structures, including the welcoming restaurant, are covered with layers of thick black paint.
Beer’s House ( Map; 0 7723 0467; Lamai North; bungalows 200-550B) These tiny shade-covered bungalows are lined up right along the sand. Some huts have a communal toilet, but all have plenty of room to sling a hammock and laze the day away. Those with their own bathroom have freshly retiled surfaces.
Sunrise Bungalow ( Map; 0 7742 4433; www.sunrisebungalow.com; Lamai South; bungalows 400-1300B; ) Steps away from the awkward giggles at Hin Ta and Hin Yai (the island’s infamous genital-shaped rocks), Sunrise offers budget travellers a relaxing place to hang their backpack. The owner is a sixth-generation Samui native.
Amity ( Map; 0 7742 4084; bungalows 350-1500B; ) Amity offers alluring modern bungalows and a few ramshackle cheapies with shared bathroom – there’s no theme, just a mishmash of accommodation that changes style depending on the price range (we liked the 700B huts). The air-con cottages are a welcome addition to the repertoire.
Spa Resort ( Map; 0 7723 0855; www.spasamui.com; Lamai North; bungalows 900-3500B; ) This health spa has a bevy of therapeutic programs on offer, and no one seems to mind that the lodging is cheap by Lamai’s standards. Programs include colonics, massage, aqua detox, hypnotherapy and yoga, just to name a few. The bathrooms leave a bit to be desired, but who needs a toilet when you’re doing a week-long fast? Accommodation tends to book up quickly, so it’s best to reserve in advance (via email). Nonguests are welcome to partake in the programs.
Lamai Wanta ( Map; 0 7742 4550, 0 7742 4218; www.lamaiwanta.com; r & bungalows 1600-3400B; ais) The pool area feels a bit retro, with its swatch book of beige- and blue-toned tiles,