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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [487]

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split-level suites have day-bed rest areas, gorgeous romantic decor, stunning views, large terraces and creatively placed bathtubs (you’ll see). Facilities include salt- and freshwater pools, a tennis court, the requisite spa, a dessert shop and several restaurants.

Sila Evason Hideaway (0 7724 5678; www.sixsenses.com/hideaway-samui/index.php; bungalows from 17,000B; ais) Set along a rugged promontory, Sila Evason strikes the perfect balance between opulence and rustic charm, and defines the term ‘barefoot elegance’. Most of the villas have stunning concrete plunge pools and offer magnificent views of the silent bay below. The regal, semi-outdoor bathrooms give the term ‘royal flush’ a whole new meaning. Beige golf buggies move guests between their hidden cottages and the stunning amenities strewn throughout the property – including a world-class spa and two excellent restaurants.

Big Buddha Beach (Bang Rak)

This area gets its moniker from the huge golden Buddha that acts as overlord from the small nearby quasi-island of Ko Fan. Its proximity to the airport means lower prices at the resorts.

Shambala (0 7742 5330; www.samui-shambala.com; bungalows 600-1000B; ) While surrounding establishments answer the call of upmarket travellers, this laid-back, English-run place is a backpacking stalwart with a subtle hippy feel. There’s plenty of communal cushion seating, a great wooden sun-deck, and the bungalows are bright and roomy. Staff doles out travel tips and smiles in equal measure.

Samui Mermaid (0 7742 7547; www.samui-mermaid.info; r 400-2500B; ais) Samui Mermaid is a great choice in the budget category because it feels like a full-fledged resort. There are two large swimming pools, copious beach chairs, two lively restaurants and every room has cable TV. The landing strip at Samui’s airport is only a couple of kilometres away, so sometimes there’s noise, but free airport transfers sweeten the deal.

Maya Buri (0 7748 4656, 08 1539 4194; www.mayaburi.com; r incl breakfast 1200-1600B; ais) Maya Buri’s inland location near the airport means that these boutique bungalows would be four times more expensive if they were situated along Chaweng. The modern resort has been designed with finesse – airy rooms, stocked with teak furniture, are focused around a cooling infinity pool.

Ocean 11 (0 7741 7118; www.o11s.com; bungalows 1900-3200B; ) A little slice of luxury at a very reasonable price, Ocean 11’s ‘residences’ are a steal (get it?!). Silly film references aside, this mellow spot with modern designer details is a great midrange getaway along a relatively quiet patch of sand. Free wi-fi available.

Prana (0 7724 6362; www.pranaresorts.com; r 5600-8000B; ais) Vegetarians unite! This trendy crash-pad is the ultimate retreat for those who shun the carnivorous lifestyle. Beautiful oceanfront bedrooms extend along the beach beyond the infinity-edge lap pool.

Bo Phut

The beach isn’t breathtaking, but Bo Phut has the most dynamic lodging in all of Samui. A string of vibrant boutique cottages starts deep within the clutter of Fisherman’s Village and radiates outward along the sand.

Khuntai ( Map; 0 7724 5118, 08 6686 2960; r 600-850B; ) This clunky orange guesthouse is as cheap as decent rooms get on Samui. A block away from the beach, on the outskirts of Fisherman’s Village, Khuntai’s 2nd-floor rooms are drenched in afternoon sunshine and feature outdoor lounging spots.

Cactus ( Map; 0 7724 5565; cactusbung@hotmail.com; bungalows 700-1590B; ) Cactus does a good job of keeping up with Bo Phut’s boutique crowd by offering cave-like concoctions that sizzle with burnt reds and oranges. The palpable backpacker buzz means that rooms err on the basic side, but they’re still clean, comfy and sport loads of charm (the fan bathrooms could benefit from an air freshener though). Fan huts are half price in low season.

Lodge ( Map; 0 7742 5337; www.apartmentsamui.com; r 1350-1900B; as) Another great choice in Bo Phut, the Lodge feels like a colonial hunting chalet with pale walls and dark wooden beams jutting across the ceiling. Every room

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