Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [490]
Centara Villas Samui (Central Samui Village; 0 7742 4020; www.centralhotelsresorts.com; bungalows 4500-5500B; ais) Centara Villas are set right where the wild thicket meets a deserted patch of boulder-strewn sand. Pavilions and terraced boardwalks, which climb over the rocky landscape, link the chic, wooden cottages.
Eating
If you thought it was hard to pick a place to sleep, the island has even more options when it comes to dining. From roasted crickets to beluga caviar – Samui’s got it and is not afraid to flaunt it.
Influenced by the mainland, Samui is peppered with kôw gaang (rice and curry) shops, usually just a wooden shack displaying large metal pots of southern Thai–style curries. Folks pull up on their motorcycles, lift up the lids to survey the vibrantly coloured contents, and pick one for lunch. Kôw gaang shops are easily found along the Ring Rd (Rte 4169) and sell out of the good stuff by 1pm. Any build-up of local motorcycles is usually a sign of a good meal in progress.
The upmarket choices are even more numerous and although Samui’s swank dining scene is laden with Italian options, visitors will have no problem finding flavours from around the globe. Lured by high salaries and spectacular weather, world-class chefs regularly make an appearance on the island.
CHAWENG
Dozens of the restaurants on the ‘strip’ serve a mixed bag of local bites, international cuisine, and greasy fast food. For the best ambience, get off the road and head to the beach, where many bungalow operators set up tables on the sand and have glittery fairy lights at night.
Laem Din Market & Night Market ( Map; dishes from 30B; 4am-6pm, night market 6pm-2am) A busy day market, Laem Din is packed with stalls selling fresh fruits, vegetables and meats that stock local Thai kitchens. Pick up a kilo of sweet green oranges or wander the stalls trying to spot the ingredients in last night’s curry. For dinner, come to the adjacent night market and sample the tasty southern-style fried chicken and curries.
Khaosan Restaurant & Bakery ( Map; dishes from 60B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) From filet mignon to flapjacks and everything in between, this chow house is popular with those looking for a cheap nosh. Hang around after your meal and catch a newly released movie on the big TV. It’s everything you’d expect from a place called ‘Khaosan’.
Wave Samui ( Map; 0 7723 0803; dishes from 60B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Everyone says that Samui is going upmarket, but the most crowded restaurants at dinnertime are still the old-fashioned budget spots, like this one. This jack-of-all trades (guesthouse-bar-restaurant) serves honest food at honest prices and fosters a travellers ambience with an in-house library and a popular happy hour (3pm to 7pm).
Islander ( Map; 08 1788 6239; dishes 100-250B; 8am-2am) A popular, pub-style shanty with Western and Thai food, a kids’ menu, outdoor tables, billiards and sports on TV – something for everyone. Breakfast is a sausage fest (literally) – the stacks of greasy meat are perfect cure-all remedy for your Singha-induced hangover.
Gringo’s Cantina ( Map; 0 7741 3267; dishes 140-280B; 2pm-midnight) Wash down a Tex-Mex classic with a jug of sangria or a frozen margarita. We liked the chimichangas (mostly because we like saying ‘chimichanga’). There are burgers, pizza and veggie options too, for those who don’t want to go ‘south of the border’.
Captain Kirk ( Map; 08 1270 5376; dishes 140-480B; dinner) Beam yourself up to this beautiful rooftop garden for a vast selection of international eats. Patrons often lounge on the cushioned bamboo furniture and indulge in post-repast cocktails.
Sibelius ( Map; 08 7466 6967; dishes from 180B; dinner Mon-Sat) Named for a Finnish composer, Sibelius strives for simplicity in a