Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [492]
Choeng Mon & Big Buddha Beach (Bang Rak)
BBC (0 7742 5264; dishes 60-200B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) No, this place has nothing to do with the BBC or Dr Who – BBC stands for Big Buddha Café. It’s popular with expats, and there’s a large international menu and exquisite ocean views from the patio.
Elephant & Castle (0 7743 0394; dishes 80-250B; lunch & dinner) The ultimate hang-out for homesick Brits, Elephant & Castle is the perfect replica of a London pub. There’s beer by the pint and the steak-and-kidney pies will give you meat sweats for days.
Dining on the Rocks (0 7724 5678; reservations-samui@sixsenses.com; menus from 1500B; dinner) The Sila Evason’s ( Click here) ultimate dining experience takes place on nine cantilevered verandahs of weathered teak and bamboo that yawn over the gulf. After sunset (and a glass of wine), guests feel like they’re dining on a wooden barge set adrift on a starlit sea. Each dish is the brainchild of the experimental cooks who regularly dabble with taste, texture and temperature. If you’re celebrating a special occasion, you’ll have to book well in advance to sit at ‘table 99’, the honeymooners’ table, positioned on a private terrace.
Bo Phut
Starfish & Coffee ( Map; 0 7742 7201; dishes 130-180B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This streamer-clad eatery was probably named after the Prince song, since we couldn’t find any starfish on the menu (there’s loads of coffee though). Evenings feature standard Thai fare and sunset views of rugged Ko Pha-Ngan.
Karma Sutra ( Map; dishes 130-260B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) A haze of purples and pillows, this charming chow spot in the heart of Bo Phut’s Fisherman Village serves up international and Thai eats listed on colourful chalkboards. Karma Sutra doubles as a clothing boutique.
Villa Bianca ( Map; 0 7724 5041, 08 9873 5867; dishes from 200B; lunch & dinner) Another fantastic Italian spot on Samui, Villa Bianca is a sea of crisp white tablecloths and woven lounge chairs. Who knew wicker could be so sexy?
Villa Daudet ( Map; dishes from 130-380B; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Villa Daudet is French-owned (so you know the food’s gonna be good) and sits in a quaint garden decorated with a flower trellis and elephant-themed paintings.
Zazen ( Map; 0 7742 5085; dishes 550-850B, set menus from 1300B; lunch & dinner) The chef describes the food as ‘organic and orgasmic’, and the ambient ‘yums’ from elated diners definitely confirm the latter. This romantic dining experience comes complete with ocean views, dim candle lighting and soft music. Reservations recommended.
Mae Nam & Bang Po
Angela’s Bakery (0 7742 7396; dishes 80-200B; breakfast & lunch) Duck through the screen of hanging plants into this beloved bakery, smelling of fresh bread and hospitality. Her sandwiches and cakes have kept many Western expats from wasting away in the land of rice.
Ko-Seng (0 7742 5365; dishes 100-300B; dinner) Hidden down a narrow side street near Mae Nam’s Chinese temple, Ko Samui’s best-kept secret is a welcome escape from the island’s restaurants that fuss over the decor instead of their food. It’s a local haunt that dishes out top-notch soft-shell crab and plump, flash-fried prawns in a peppery sauce.
Bang Po Seafood (0 7742 0010; dishes from 100B; dinner) A meal at Bang Po Seafood is a test for the tastebuds. It’s one of the only restaurants that serves traditional Ko Samui fare (think of it as island road-kill, well, actually it’s more like local sea-kill): recipes call for ingredients such as raw sea urchin roe, baby octopus, sea water, coconut and local turmeric.
WEST COAST
The quiet west coast features some of the best seafood on Samui. Nathon has a giant day market on Th Thawi Ratchaphakdi – it’s worth stopping by to grab some snacks before your ferry ride.
About Art & Craft Café (08 9724 9673; Na Thon; dishes 80-180B; breakfast & lunch) An artistic oasis in the midst of hurried Na Thon, this cafe