Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [519]
Tanote Bay (Ao Tanot)
Tanote Bay is slightly more populated than some of the other eastern coves, but it’s still quiet and picturesque. It is the only bay on the east coast that is accessible by paved road. Discounted taxis (80B to 100B) bounce back and forth between Tanote Bay and Mae Hat; ask at your resort for a timetable and price details.
Poseidon (0 7745 6735; poseidonkohtao@hotmail.com; bungalows from 300B) Poseidon keeps the tradition of the budget bamboo bungalow alive with a dozen basic-but-sleepable huts scattered near the sand.
Bamboo Huts (0 7745 6531; bungalows 300-500B) Sitting on scraggly boulders in the centre of Tanote Bay, Bamboo Huts caters to penny-pinchers with the usual crew of cheap bungalows. The sociable restaurant, serving Thai and Western fare, is an added bonus.
Diamond Beach (0 7745 6591; bungalows 300-1100B; ) Diamond’s beachy batch of huts sits directly on Tanote’s sand. There’s a mix of bungalow types, including A-frames for tinier wallets.
Black Tip Dive Resort (0 7745 6488; www.blacktip-kohtao.com; bungalows 600-2800B; ai) Part dive shop and water-sports centre, Black Tip also has a handful of lovely wooden bungalows with thatched roofing. The scuba centre is housed in a wacky structure made of rippling white adobe and strange geometric protrusions. Guests get a 50% discount when enrolled in a diving course and ‘fun divers’ get 25% off room rates.
Ao Leuk & Ao Thian Ok
The dirt roads to Ao Leuk and Ao Thian Ok are steep, rough and rutty, especially towards the end; don’t attempt it on a motorcycle unless you’re an expert. Both bays are stunning and serene.
Ao Leuk Bungalows (0 7745 6692; bungalows 400-1500B) Lodging at Ao Leuk comes in several shapes and sizes ranging from backpacker shacks to modern family-friendly options. Flickering torches and ambient cackles of curious cicadas accent the jet-black evenings.
Jamahkiri Resort & Spa (0 7745 6400; www.jamahkiri.com; bungalows 6900-13,900B) The flamboyant decor at this whitewashed estate is decidedly focused around tribal imagery. Wooden gargoyle masks and stone fertility goddesses abound amid swirling mosaics and multi-armed statues. Feral hoots of distant monkeys confirm the overarching jungle theme, as do the thatched roofs and tiki-torched soirees. The resort’s seemingly infinite number of stone stairways can be a pain, so it’s a good thing Ko Tao’s most luxurious spa is located on the premises ( Click here).
NORTH COAST
This isolated rocky bay has one sleeping option in a dramatic setting of tangled jungle vines and rocky hills.
Mango Bay Grand Resort (0 7745 6097; www.mangobaygrandresortkohtaothailand.com; bungalows 1400-3000B; ) Spacious mahogany bungalows are perched high on stilts above the ashen boulders lining the bay. A thin necklace of mosaic-lined paths winds through the tropical shrubbery, connecting the secluded villas.
KO NANG YUAN
Photogenic Ko Nang Yuan, just off the coast of Ko Tao, is easily accessible by the Lomprayah catamaran, and by water taxis that depart from Mae Hat and Sairee.
Ko Nangyuan Dive Resort (0 7745 6088, 0 7745 6093; www.nangyuan.com; bungalows 1500-7000B; ) Although the obligatory 100B tax to access the island is a bit off-putting (as is the 100B water-taxi ride each way), Nangyuan Dive Resort is nonetheless a charming place to stay. The rugged collection of wood and aluminium bungalows winds its way across three coolie hat–like conical islands connected by an idyllic beige sandbar. The resort also boasts the best restaurant on the island, but then again, it’s the only place to eat…
Eating
With super-sized Samui lurking on the horizon, it’s hard to believe that quaint little Ko Tao is a worthy opponent in the gastronomy category. Most resorts offer on-site dining, and stand-alone establishments are multiplying at lightning speed at Sairee Beach and Mae Hat. The diverse population of divers has spawned a broad range of international