Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [522]
Dragon Bar ( Map; 0 7745 6423) This bar caters to those seeking snazzy, cutting-edge surroundings. There’s happening ‘Communist-chic’ retro styling throughout, and everything’s dimly lit, moody and relaxing. Dragon Bar is rumoured to have the best cocktails on the island – try the espresso martini for a real buzz.
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LEARNING THE LOCAL LINGO
Due to the steady influx of international visitors, English is spoken just about everywhere; however, the locals on this scuba-savvy island regularly incorporate diving sign language symbols into common parlance – especially at the bars.
Here are a few gestures to get you started:
I’m OK – Make a fist and tap the top of your head twice.
Cool – Bring together the tips of your index finger and thumb forming an ‘O’.
I’m finished/I’m ready to go – Hold your hand tight like a karate chop and quickly swing it back and forth perpendicular to your neck.
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Safety Stop Pub (0 7745 6209) A haven for homesick Brits, this pier-side pub feels like a tropical beer garden. Stop by on Sunday to stuff your face with an endless supply of barbecued goodness. Wi-fi is available.
Shopping
If you’re having trouble scrubbing the sea salt out of your hair, then stop by Avalon (Mae Hat; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat) for some locally made (and ecofriendly) body and hair-care products.
Getting There & Away
As always, the cost and departure times are in flux. Rough waves are known to cancel ferries between the months of October and December. Beware of travel agencies in Bangkok and Surat Thani selling fake boat/train combinations.
BANGKOK, HUA HIN & CHUMPHON
Bus-boat package tickets from Bangkok cost 900B to 1000B and are available from travel agencies on Th Khao San. Promotional bus-boat combination tickets in the opposite direction are sometimes offered for as little as 700B (watch out for scams!). Buses switch to boats in Chumphon and Bangkok-bound passengers can choose to disembark in Hua Hin.
The train is a more comfortable option than the bus, and tourists can plan their own journey by taking a boat to Chumphon and the train up to Bangkok (or any town along the upper southern gulf); likewise in the opposite direction.
From Ko Tao, the high-speed catamaran departs for Chumphon at 10.15am and 2.45pm (550B, 1½ hours), the Seatran leaves the island at 4pm (550B, two hours), and a Songserm fast boat makes the same journey at 2.30pm (450B, three hours). There may be fewer departures if the swells are high.
There’s also a midnight boat from Chumphon (600B) arriving early in the morning. It returns from Ko Tao at 11pm. Don’t take this boat if there’s a good chance of rain; some boats leak and you’ll be wet, cold and miserable. Click here for more information.
KO PHA-NGAN
The Lomprayah catamaran offers twice daily service, leaving Ko Tao at 9.30am and 3pm and arriving on Ko Pha-Ngan around 10.50am and 4.10pm. The Seatran Discovery ferry offers an identical service. The Songserm Express Boat departs daily at 10am and arrives on Samui at 11.30am. Hotel pick-ups are included in the price.
Ko Tao–bound Lomprayah and Seatran ferries depart Ko Pha-Ngan at 8.30am and 1pm and arrive at 9.45am and 2.15pm. Songserm leaves Ko Pha-Ngan at noon and arrives at 1.45pm.
KO SAMUI
The Lomprayah catamaran offers twice daily service, leaving Ko Tao at 9.30am and 3pm, and arriving on Samui around 11.30am and 4.40pm. The Seatran Discovery ferry offers an identical service. The Songserm Express Boat (www.songserm-expressboat.com) departs daily at 10am and arrives on Samui at 12.45pm. Hotel pick-ups are included in the price.
Ko Tao–bound Lomprayah and Seatran ferries depart Samui at 8am and 12.30pm and arrive at 9.45am and 2.15pm. Songserm leaves Samui at 11am and arrives at 1.45pm.
SURAT THANI & ANDAMAN COAST
Combination boat-bus tickets are available at any travel agency; simply tell them your desired destination and they will sell you the necessary links in the transport chain. Most travellers