Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [527]
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Information
The police station and hospital are located just south of Ban Khanom at the junction leading to Kho Khao Beach. There’s a 7-Eleven (with an ATM) in the heart of Ban Khanom.
Sights
A unique feature of Khanom is the pink dolphins, a rare breed of albino dolphins that have a stunning pink hue. They are regularly seen from the old ferry pier and the electricity plant pier around dawn and dust.
The area is also home to a variety of pristine geological features including waterfalls and caves. The largest falls, known as Samet Chun, has tepid pools for cooling off, and great views of coast. To reach the falls, head south from Ban Khanom and turn left at the blue Samet Chun sign. Follow the road for about 2km and after crossing a small stream, take the next right and hike up into the mountain following the dirt road. After a 15-minute walk, listen for the waterfall and look for a small trail on the right. The scenic Nam Tok Hin Lat is the smallest cascade, but it’s also the easiest to reach. There are pools for swimming and several huts providing shape. It’s located south of Nai Phlao.
There are also two beautiful caves along the main road (Hwy 4014) between Khanom and Don Sak. Khao Wang Thong has a string of lights guiding visitors through the network of caverns and narrow passages. A metal gate covers the entrance; stop at the house at the base of the hill to retrieve the key (and leave a small donation). Turn right off the main highway at Rd 4142 to find Khao Krot Cave, which has two large caverns; you’ll have to bring a flashlight.
For a postcard-worthy vista of the undulating coastline, head to Dat Fa Mountain, located about 5km west of the coast along Hwy 4014. The hillside is usually deserted, making it easy to spot along the way, and snap some photos.
Sleeping & Eating
In the last few years, construction in the area has started to take off. The area is far from booming, but large-scale development is definitely on the cards. A recent surge in Gulf oil-rigging has meant that developers are eyeing Khanom as a potential holiday destination for nearby workers.
For some cheap eats, head to Kho Khao Beach at the end of Rd 4232. You’ll find a steamy jumble of barbecue stands offering some tasty favourites like mo nám òk (spicy pork salad) and sôm·am. On Wednesday and Sunday, there are markets further inland near the police station.
Talkoo Beach Resort (0 7552 8397, 08 3692 2711; bungalows 800-1500B; as) This charming operation has dozens of snazzy white cottages featuring quirky fixtures such as sinks made from hollowed-out tree trunks.
Khanom Hill Resort (0 7552 9403; bungalows 800-1800B; as) The seven small, red-roofed bungalows overlook the sea from various angles along this hilly property. Adorable wicker furnishings abound, and when we visited, the construction of a swimming pool was underway.
Racha Kiri (0 7552 7847; www.rachakiri.com; bungalows 3500-12,500B; as) Khanom’s upmarket retreat is a beautiful campus of rambling villas. The big price-tag means no crowds, which can be nice, although the resort feels like a white elephant in low season.
One More Beer (08 1396 4447; www.1morebeer.net; bungalows 800-1000B; ai) One More Beer is a chill spot to grab some delicious international cuisine. The tidy bungalows and friendly fa·ràng staff make One More Beer a worthy option even though it’s not directly on the beach.
Getting There & Away
From Surat Thani, you can catch any Nakhon-bound bus and ask to be let off at the junction for Khanom. Catch a motorcycle taxi (70B) the rest of the way. You can get a share taxi from Nakhon Si Thammarat’s share-taxi terminal to Khanom town for 85B. From Khanom town you can hire motorcycle taxis out to the beaches for about 60B. There are three separate bus stops in the vicinity. Ask your driver