Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [530]
Krua Talay (Th Pak Nakhon; dishes 40-300B; lunch & dinner) Located near the Kukwang Market, Krua Talay is the top spot in town for succulent seafood. It can be a little pricey compared to the other nontouristy chow spots around town, but the locals agree that it’s definitely worth it.
Country Home (08 1968 0762; 119/7 Th Ratchadamnoen) This large, open-air bar invokes the Wild West with saloon-style seating and an odd smattering of straw hats. There’s live music every night and the joint gets packed with beer-toting locals.
Getting There & Away
Due to the burgeoning popularity of the Jatukham amulet (see boxed text, Click here), transport to Nakhon is booming.
Several small carriers (plus Thai Airways) fly from Bangkok to Nakhon everyday. There are about six daily one-hour flights priced around 3500B.
There are two daily train departures from Bangkok to Nakhon (stopping through Hua Hin, Chumphon and Surat Thani along the way). They are both 12-hour night trains leaving at 5.35pm and 7.15pm. Second-class fares cost between 590B and 890B. These trains continue on to Hat Yai and Sungai Kolok.
Buses from Bangkok depart either between 6am and 8am, or between 5.30pm and 10pm. There are about seven daily departures (1st/2nd class around 700/600B, 12 to 13 hours). Ordinary buses to Bangkok leave from the bus terminal, but a couple of private buses leave from booking offices on Th Jamroenwithi, where you can also buy tickets.
When looking for minivan stops to leave Nakhon, keep an eye out for small desks along the side of the downtown roads (minivans and waiting passengers may or may not be present nearby). It’s best to ask around as each destination has a different departure point. Krabi and Don Sak minivans are grouped together – just make sure you don’t get on the wrong one. Stops are scattered around Th Jamroenwithi, Th Wakhit and Th Yommarat. There are frequent minivans (that leave when they’re full) to Krabi (180B to 240B, 2½ hours) and Phuket (175B to 275B, five hours), Surat Thani (100B, one hour), Khanom (85B, one hour) and Hat Yai (around 120B, three hours).
Getting Around
Srng·ta·ou run north–south along Th Ratchadamnoen and Th Si Thammasok for 10B (a bit more at night). Motorcycle-taxi rides start at 20B and cost up to 50B for longer distances.
AROUND NAKHON SI THAMMARAT
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Khao Luang National Park
Known for its beautiful mountain and forest walks, cool streams, waterfalls and orchards, Khao Luang National Park (0 7530 9644-7; adult/child 400/200B) surrounds the 1835m peak of Khao Luang. This soaring mountain range reaches up to 1800m, and is covered in virgin forest. An ideal source for streams and rivers, the mountains show off impressive waterfalls and provide a habitat for a plethora of bird species – this place is a good spot for any budding ornithologist. Fans of flora will also get their kicks here; there are over 300 species of orchid in the park, some of which are found nowhere else on earth.
Park bungalows can be rented for between 600B and 1000B per night, and sleep six to 12 people. Camping is permitted along the trail to the summit. To reach the park, take a srng·ta·ou (25B) from Nakhon Si Thammarat to the village of Khiriwong, at the base of Khao Luang. The entrance to the park and the offices of the Royal Forest Department are 33km from the centre of Nakhon on Rte 4015, an asphalt road that climbs almost 400m in 2.5km to the office and a further 450m to the car park.
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Andaman Coast
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RANONG PROVINCE
PHANG-NGA PROVINCE
PHUKET PROVINCE
KRABI PROVINCE
TRANG PROVINCE
RANONG TOWN
KO CHANG
KO PHAYAM
LAEM SON NATIONAL PARK
KHAO SOK NATIONAL PARK
KHAO LAK & AROUND
SURIN ISLANDS MARINE NATIONAL PARK
SIMILAN ISLANDS MARINE NATIONAL PARK
PHANG-NGA TOWN & AO PHANG-NGA
AROUND PHANG-NGA
PHUKET