Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [537]
Sights & Activities
Khao Sok’s vast terrain makes it one of the last viable habitats for large mammals requiring large areas in order to subsist. During the wetter months you may happen upon bears, boars, gaurs, tapirs, gibbons, deer, wild elephants and perhaps even a tiger. There are also over 180 species of bird, as well as the world’s largest flower, the rare Rafflesia kerrii. Found only in Khao Sok, these giant flowers can reach 80cm in diameter. It has no roots or leaves of its own; instead it lives parasitically inside the roots of the liana, a jungle vine.
The stunning Chiaw Lan Lake sits about an hour’s drive east of the visitor centre. The lake was created in 1982 by an enormous shale-clay dam called Ratchaprapha (Kheuan Ratchaprapha or Kheuan Chiaw Lan). The limestone outcrops protruding from the lake reach a height of 960m, over three times higher than the formations in the Phang-Nga area.
A cave known as Tham Nam Thalu contains striking limestone formations and subterranean streams, while Tham Si Ru features four converging passageways used as a hideout by communist insurgents between 1975 and 1982. The caves can be reached on foot from the southwestern shore of the lake. You can rent boats from local fishermen to explore the coves, canals, caves and cul-de-sacs along the lakeshore.
Elephant trekking, kayaking and rafting are popular park activities. The hiking is also excellent, and you can arrange park tours from any guesthouse – just be sure you get a certified guide (they wear an official badge). Various hiking trails from the visitors centre lead to the waterfalls of Sip-Et Chan (4km), Than Sawan (9km) and Than Kloy (9km), among other destinations.
Sleeping & Eating
The road leading into the park is lined with charming fan bungalows offering comfortable digs in natural surroundings. Try to arrive in the daytime, so you can walk along the short road leading up to the park and pick where you want to stay.
Art’s Riverview Jungle Lodge (0 7739 5009; bungalows 350-550B) Art’s has a pleasant range of simple, solid and airy rooms with mosquito nets. The more expensive ones have verandahs and hammocks, and all are in a beautiful, tranquil and lush setting. You can watch wild macaques from the riverside restaurant.
Khao Sok Rainforest Resort (0 7739 5006; www.krabidir.com/khaosokrainforest; bungalows 400-600B) Huts perched high on stilts along the snaking river. In-house conservation programs target low-impact hiking and forest restoration.
Morning Mist Resort (0 7885 6185; bungalows 600B) Plenty of twigs and thatch with views of the jagged rock formations. Bookings should be made through the National Park Services.
Cliff & River Jungle Resort (08 7271 8787; www.thecliffandriver.com; bungalows 1800B) A beautiful property set just below the jagged silver cliffs. The plunge pool and steam spa are extra perks.
Getting There & Around
Khao Sok is about 100km from Surat Thani. Transport to the park by minivan from Surat Thani (80B, one hour, at least twice daily) can be arranged through most travel agents in Surat, but be aware that some minivan companies work with specific bungalow outfitters and will try to convince you to stay at that place. Otherwise, from the Surat Thani area you can catch a bus going towards Takua Pa – you’ll be getting off well before hitting this destination (tell the bus driver ‘Khao Sok’). You can also come from the west coast by bus, but you’ll have to go to Takua Pa first. Buses from Takua Pa to the park (25B, one hour, nine daily) drop you off on the highway, 1.8km from the visitor centre. If guesthouse touts don’t meet you, you’ll have to walk to your chosen guesthouse (from 50m to 2km). The roads within the main parts of the park are well paved, so personal vehicles will have no problems getting around.
To arrive at Chiaw Lan Lake, go east on Rte 401 from the visitor centre and take the turn-off between the Km52 and Km53 markers, at Ban Takum. It’s another 14km to the lake. If you don’t have your own wheels, you