Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [542]
A rough-and-ready walking trail – not for the unsteady – winds 2km along the coast and through forest to the beach at Ao Mai Ngam, where there’s good snorkelling. At low tide it’s easy to walk between the bays near headquarters.
Sleeping & Eating
Sleeping on the Surins is significantly more comfortable than shacking up on the Similans. Park accommodation is simple and fine, but because of the island’s short, narrow beaches it’s very close together and can feel seriously crowded when full (around 300 people).
For park accommodation, book online at www.dnp.go.th or with the mainland national park office (0 7649 1378) in Khuraburi. Bungalows (with fan, bathroom & balcony 2000B) and tents (1-/2-person 300/450B) are available at Ao Chong Khad, and tents are also available at Ao Mai Ngam. You can pitch your own tent (80B). There’s generator power until about 10pm. A park restaurant (dishes from 60B) serves authentic Thai food.
If you need to stay overnight in Khuraburi, there’s basic accommodation at Tararin Resort (0 7649 1789; r from 300-500B; ) or try Boon Piya Resort (08 1752 5457; bungalows 600B; ), beside Tom & Am Tour. A more luxurious option, Kuraburi Greenview Resort (0 7640 1400; www.kuraburigreenview.co.th; d from 1900B; ), 15km south of town, is set among forest and river, with comfortable slate-and-cobblestone bungalows.
Getting There & Away
A ‘big boat’ (return 1200B, 2½ hours one way) leaves the Khuraburi pier at 9am daily, returning at 1pm (though it didn’t go when we passed through). Tour operators use speedboats (return 1700B, one hour one way) and will transfer independent travellers on their daily runs.
Several tour operators, all located near the pier, run day/overnight tours (around 2800/3800B) to the park; agencies in Khao Lak ( Click here) and Phuket ( Click here) can make bookings for these and other trips. Popular live-aboard diving trips departing from Khao Lak stop around several different islands in the archipelago. In Khuraburi town, try the affable Tom & Am Tour (08 6272 0588; www.surinislandtour.com) for on-spec bookings. Tour operators include transfers from Khao Lak in their prices.
Three to six daily buses run between Phuket and Khuraburi (160B, 3½ hours) and between Khuraburi and Ranong (60B, 1½ hours).
SIMILAN ISLANDS MARINE NATIONAL PARK
The fluorescent playground of Khao Lak’s booming live-aboard industry, beautiful Similan Islands Marine National Park (www.dnp.go.th; admission 400B; Nov-May) lies 70km offshore, offering some of the finest diving in Thailand, if not the world. Its smooth granite islands are as impressive above water as below, topped with rainforest, edged with white-sand beaches and fringed with coral reef.
Two of the nine islands, Ko Miang (Island 4) and Ko Similan (Island 8), have ranger stations and accommodation; park headquarters and most visitor activity centres on Ko Miang. ‘Similan’ comes from the Malay word sembilan, meaning nine, and while each island has a proper name; they are usually referred to by their number.
The jumping-off point for the park is the pier at Thap Lamu (or Tabla Mu), about 10km south of Khao Lak. The mainland national park office (0 7659 5045; 8am-4pm) is about 500m before the pier, but there’s no information in English available – it’s best to head to Khao Lak ( Click here) to get all the info you need about exploring these nine magical islets and the reefs that surround them.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sights & Activities
DIVING & SNORKELLING
The Similans offer exceptional diving for all levels of experience, at depths from 2m to 30m. There are seamounts (at Fantasy Rocks), rock reefs (at Ko Payu) and dive-throughs (at Hin