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Now that my surgery is far behind me, I have to take female hormones regularly until I die. I take a pill twice per week, but some male-to-females take one injection per month (I hate needles). Some people have bad reaction to the medication at first. I have had friends who got a lot of pimples and got really fat. Sometimes it takes a while before you find the right amount of hormones. Besides the hormones, there is a certain amount of…maintenance…that needs to take place in order to keep my new parts working. Put it this way, when you get your ears pierced, if you don’t regularly wear earrings…well… Anyway, my aunt, who moved to the United States, asked me if I wanted to move too, but I am happy in Thailand. Even though transgender individuals don’t have a lot of rights, I’m not convinced that it is that much better anywhere else.

And finally, what do you feel is the biggest misconception about gà·teu·i in Thailand? This is an easy question. The biggest misconception is that we are all promiscuous whores and liars. Like any human being, we are just looking for love. It is true that many ladyboys do try to trick the people around them, but this is because they are afraid of being rejected for who they really are. Also, many of them lie because they desperately want to be real women, but they will never be real women. I know that – that’s why I always show the real me – I am comfortable with who I am. I wish everyone else would be too.

For more information about ladyboys in Thailand, visit www.thailadyboyz.net (although the site is currently in Thai only).

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Phuket’s main day market ( Map; Th Ranong) is worth a wander and is the spot to invest in the requisite Thai and Malay sarongs, as well as baggy Shan fishermen’s pants.

The new Phuket Thai Hua Museum ( Map; www.thaihua.net; Th Krabi; admission free; 1-8pm Tue-Sun), set in an old Sino-Portuguese home, celebrates the town’s Chinese heritage. It consists mostly of old and new black-and-white photographs and runs on donations.

A handful of Chinese temples inject some added colour into the area. Most are standard issue, but the Shrine of the Serene Light ( Map; Saan Jao Sang Tham; 8.30am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm), tucked away at the end of a 50m alley near the Bangkok Bank of Commerce on Th Phang-Nga, is a cut above the rest. You’ll see Taoist etchings on the walls, the vaulted ceiling stained from incense plumes, and the altar is always alive with fresh flowers and burning candles. The shrine, which has been restored, is said to have been built by a local family in the mid-1880s, and the sense of history is tangible.

The namesake of the Phra Phitak Chyn Pracha Mansion ( Map; 9 Th Krabi) used to own a number of tin mines in the early 20th century. Today the ochre-tinged house sits forlorn, in need of a Thai Scarlett O’Hara (it certainly has the grounds for it). The iron gates are open, so proceed at your own risk. If you do breach the threshold, and dogs bark, don’t worry as they’re probably just growling at the ghosts.

Phuket Town is also known for its whimsical galleries tucked behind charming Chinese shopfronts. At Rinda Magical Art ( Map; 08 9289 8852; www.rindamagicalart.com; 27 Th Yaowarat; admission free; 10am-7pm) you step inside a surrealistic realm run by a chatty artist. Distinctly modern interpretations of traditional themes can be found at Number 1 Gallery ( Map; 08 7281 5279; www.number1gallery.com; 32 Th Yaowarat; admission free; 10.30am-7.30pm), a branch of one of Bangkok’s best-loved fine-art galleries. Gold leaf and acrylic formed evocative images of blooming lotuses and Asian elephants when we visited. The Rendezvous Gallery ( Map; 0 7621 9095; 69 Th Yaowarat; 10am-7pm) features fantastic psychedelic Buddhist art on canvas, batik, paper and wood.

For a bird’s-eye view of the city, climb up pretty Khao Rang (Phuket Hill; Map), northwest of the town centre. It’s at its best during the week, when the summit is relatively peaceful, but keep