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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [558]

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changes rapidly as staff turnover is high. Go with your gut and ask your fellow travellers – at these bargain prices it’s hard to go wrong, but don’t expect fireworks.

If you’re looking for a more Westernised spa experience, head to one of Phuket’s plentiful spa resorts. These places are often affiliated with a ritzy hotel (but nearly all are open to nonguests). They are snazzy affairs with gorgeous Zen designs and huge treatment menus. Prices vary depending on location, but treatments generally start at around 1000B and go up and up from there.

Our three favourite spas:

The Banyan Tree Spa ( Map; www.banyantree.com) at the Banyan Tree Phuket ( Click here) is the clear winner. The spa runs a world-renowned massage school and all specialists at the centre have completed the lengthy training. Special Indian energy treatments have been recently added to the laundry list of therapies. Try the signature three-hour Royal Banyan treatment (US$195). It includes a mint footbath, a cucumber and lemongrass rub, Thai herbal massage and a soak in a petal-filled tub.

The Six Senses Spa (www.sixsenses.com) at the Evason Phuket Resort ( Click here) is sublimely back-to-nature in setting, yet cutting edge as far as treatments are concerned. Try the ‘Sensory Spa Journey’ (90 minutes, 8000B), which includes a four-hand massage (two therapists), luxurious footbaths and a goody bag of product samples used in your treatment.

One of Phuket’s first spas, Hideaway Day Spa (0 7627 1549; 11am-9pm) still enjoys an excellent reputation. More reasonably priced than many hotel counterparts, the Hideaway offers traditional Thai massage, sauna and mud body wraps in a tranquil wooded setting at the edge of a lagoon. Treatments start at 1500B.

For a list of additional spas, see above.

* * *

Amanpuri Spa ( Map; 0 7632 4333; www.amanresorts.com; 118/1 Moo 3, Th Srisoonthorn, Surin; treatments from 3500B; 9am-9pm) Therapy mingles with luxury at this cliff-side spa, set in a secluded coconut grove. Treatment rooms are all wood and glass with private steam chambers and meditation gardens. The spa uses its own brand of all-natural organic products and resort guests can wake up with an early-morning yoga class.

Aspasia ( Map; 0 7633 3033; www.aspasiaphuket.com; 1/3 Th Laem Sai; treatments from 1000B; 9am-9pm) A brilliant day spa option is hidden away at this unique condo resort on the headland between Kata and Karon. The interior is cosy and very Zen with sliding rice-paper doors dividing the treatment rooms. Try the red sweet body scrub, a mixture of sesame, honey and fresh orange juice. Or maybe you’d rather the coconut and passionfruit exfoliation? It also has a full-service beauty salon and offers a variety of massage styles.

Atsumi Healing (08 1272 0571; www.atsumihealing.com; 34/18 Soi Pattana, Rawai; spa treatments from 1000B) Atsumi isn’t just a spa, it’s an earthy fasting and detox retreat centre. Most guests come to fast on water, juice and/or herbs for days at a time. Massages are also part of the program, and the regularly eating public is welcome to book massages here. In addition to traditional Thai, oil and deep-tissue treatments, you can have the signature ThaiAtsu massage (think Thai meets shiatsu) or meditative and gentle yoga classes with a touch of t’ai chi. Staff call it their Morning Ritual.

Indigo Spa (0 7632 7006; www.indigo-pearl.com; Hat Nai Yang; treatments from 1500B; 9am-9pm) Set in the mega Indigo Pearl resort ( Click here) that doubles as an avant-garde monument to Phuket’s tin-mining past, treatments at this fantastic spa include a moist chocolate-pudding scrub (don’t eat it!) and a pearl wrap featuring the vegetal extracts of local cultured pearls.

Spa Royale ( Map; 0 7633 3568; www.villaroyalephuket.com; 12 Th Kata Noi; treatments from 1200B; 9am-8pm) With organic spa products, seaside treatment rooms and highly skilled therapists, this is one of the top spas in southern Phuket. Its 90-minute aromatherapy massage is an all-timer.

Courses

Beach House Cooking School ( Map; 089 6511064; Hat Surin;

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