Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [571]
Gueyjah ( Map; dishes from 40B; lunch & dinner) Tucked away on a side road off Rte 4028, Gueyjah is tops for quick and cheap Thai eats, and it’s known only to locals.
Italian Job ( Map; 179/1 Th Koktanod; dishes from 75B; 7am-9pm) Though Charlize Theron is nowhere to be found, this hip coffee lounge has wi-fi, decent pastries, delicious Italian espresso and a loyal morning following.
Rico’s ( Map; Th Thai Na; dishes 120-350B; lunch & dinner) The smartest kid on this block features fine New Zealand steaks, pizzas and a huge collection of black-and-white film star snaps (very 1980s).
Ratri Jazztaurant ( Map; 0 7633 3538; Th Chalong-Karon; dishes from 140B; lunch & dinner) If you like jazz, you should wind your way up to this hillside terrace to listen to local and international acts blow like they mean it. It’s especially sweet at sunset, and the food comes highly recommended as well.
Capannina ( Map; dishes 150-350B; lunch & dinner) The chefs at this hip, open-air bistro with moulded concrete booths and imported olive oil on the tables start prepping early in the day. Everything here – from the pasta dishes to the sauces – is made fresh. It gets crowded during the high season, so you may want to book ahead.
Boathouse Wine & Grill ( Map; 0 7633 0015; Th Patak West; dishes 450-850B; lunch & dinner) The perfect place to wow a fussy date, the Boathouse has been the critic’s champion for some time. The Mediterranean fusion food is fabulous (think vodka-marinated lobster and foie gras with black-truffle oil), the wine list is endless and the sea views are sublime. It’s a fancy place – this is the closest Phuket gets to old-school dining – so put away that Hawaiian-print shirt!
After Beach Bar ( Map; 08 1894 3750; Hwy 4233; 11am-midnight) It’s difficult – make that impossible – to overstate how glorious the view is from this stilted, thatched patio bar hanging off a cliff above Kata. Now turn on the Bob Marley and you’ve got the best reggae bar on Phuket. The menu is packed with Thai faves, and at sunset the sky performs a light show – when the fireball finally drops, lights from the distant fishing boats blanket the horizon.
Nai Han & Rawai
Besides the restaurants attached to the resorts in Rawai, there are oodles of seafood and noodle vendors along the roadside near Hat Rawai. The following listings are sit-down restaurants.
Rawai Seafood (Hat Rawai; dishes 60-340B) Located next to the local municipal building at the west end of the beach, this haphazard assortment of benches and tables is the top spot for fresh seafood in Rawai. Try the local Phuketian dishes, like bean-curd soup and steamed kale.
Freedom Pub (0 7628 7402; Hat Rawai; dishes 80-200B; lunch & dinner) More watering hole than eatery, this Rawai boozer features outdoor seating, a pool table, live music on the weekends, a free barbecue on Friday night and – strangely – an on-site tattoo parlour.
Don’s Mall & Cafe (0 7638 3100; 48-5 Soi Sai Yuan; dishes 100-650B) This Texan-run food-and-entertainment complex showcases hearty American meat feast barbecued over a mesquite-wood fire. It also has an extensive wine list and freshly baked goods. It’s about 3km from the beach in Rawai.
Los Amigos (08 9472 9128; Nai Han; dishes 130-230B) This is as close to real Tex-Mex as you’re going to get in Thailand. Orders available for takeaway as well.
Rum Jungle (0 7638 8153; 69/8 Th Sai Yuan; dishes from 180B; 5-11pm Mon-Sat) The thatched dining room is patrolled by a fun Thai crew who effortlessly make you feel at home. Oh, and the food is dynamite too. Who knew penne and meatballs or fish and chips could be this fine? The Argentinean tenderloin is also divine, and so is the world-beat soundtrack.
PHUKET TOWN
Meals in Phuket Town cost a lot less than those at the beach – as much as 50% less. Southeast of the centre, on Th Ong Sim Phai, is the town