Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [575]
Pure Car Rent ( Map; 0 7621 1002; www.purecarrent.com; 75 Th Rasada, Phuket Town)
Via Rent-A-Car ( Map; 0 7638 5718; www.via-phuket.com; 189/6 Th Rat Uthit, Patong) Also a branch in Kamala ( Map).
There are many petrol stations around the island, but only one in Patong (and it’s always very busy).
SRNG•TĂA•OU & Túk-túk
In Phuket Town, large srng·ta·ou run regularly from Th Ranong near the day market to the various Phuket beaches for 40B to 70B per person. They operate from 7am to 5pm; outside these times you have to charter a túk-túk to the beaches, which will set you back 250B to Patong, 280B to Karon and Kata, and 340B for Nai Han and Kamala. For a ride around Phuket’s Old Town, túk-túk drivers should charge 30B for an hour. In Patong, a quick ride shouldn’t set you back more than 25B. You can also charter túk-túk between beach resorts. Rides cost 300B to 500B.
TAXI
If only Phuket had a fleet of metered taxis with published fares. Instead they have private cars, whose drivers can charge more for a 10-minute ride to Rawai from Kata than a 20-minute ride from Rawai to Phuket Town. Don’t try to make sense of it, just negotiate the fare before you leave. Rides generally cost 300B to 500B one way. Motorcycle taxis are much cheaper, and can cost as little as 30B per ride, but most work exclusively in Phuket’s Old Town.
KO YAO
Ko Yao Yai (Big Long Island) and Ko Yao Noi (Little Long Island) are actually part of the Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park ( Click here), but are more easily accessible from Phuket. Together they encompass 137 sq km of forest, beach and rocky headland, with views of the surrounding karst formations characteristic of Ao Phang-Nga.
Ko Yao Noi is more populated than its sister. Hat Pa Sai and Hat Tha Khao, both on Yao Noi, are the best beaches. Ta Khai, the largest settlement on the island, is a subdistrict seat and a source of minimal supplies.
Ko Yao Yai is more isolated and rustic than its smaller neighbour. Please remember to respect the Muslim culture on both islands by wearing modest clothing outside beach areas.
Boat trips to neighbouring islands, bird-nest caves and chow nám funeral caves are possible. Ko Bele, a small island east of the twin Ko Yao, features a large tidal lagoon, three white-sand beaches, and easily accessible caves and coral reefs. Make sure to bring enough cash when visiting Ko Yao, as there is only one ATM and it’s often out of cash.
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Sleeping
KO YAO NOI
Koh Yao Noi Eco-Tourism Club (0 7659 7409, 0 1089 5413; www.koh-yao-noi-eco-tourism-club.com) This model ecotourism project has been developed in partnership with Responsible Ecological Social Tours Project (REST), a Bangkok-based NGO. Participants stay with a host family and learn about small-scale fishing methods and local ecology. With postcard views of Ao Phang-Nga’s limestone mountains, the island is poised between a traditional way of life and a mushrooming tourist industry. Through the homestay program, visitors can contribute to the island’s economic development without undermining the village atmosphere. A night of accommodation costs 400B per person and includes meals.
Sabai Corner Bungalow (08 1892 7827; www.sabaicornerbungalows.com; bungalows 500-2000B) Sturdy thatch-and-wood bungalows with small verandahs are managed by a long-time British expat. The restaurant is pretty good and comes with the usual fabulous views.
Tha Khao Bungalow (08 1676 7726; www.kohyaobungalow.com; bungalows 550-1200B) On Hat Tha Khao, this small place features five solid thatch-and-wood bungalows, including two family-size ones (with three bedrooms). The small restaurant does tasty food and also rents out bicycles and kayaks – a recommended way to explore the area.
Lom Lea (08 9868 8642; www.lomlae.com; bungalows 2100-5000B) Lom Lea’s bungalows jive perfectly with the natural surroundings. The resort edges a secluded stretch of beach offering unobstructed views of Ao Phang-Nga’s idyllic limestone karst formations.