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Around the national park headquarters there are several restaurants serving snacks such as fried chicken and papaya salad.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Srng·ta·ou between Krabi and Ao Nang stop in Hat Noppharat Thara; the fare is 40B from Krabi or 10B from Ao Nang. From October to May the Ao Nang Princess runs between Ko Phi-Phi Marine National Park headquarters and Ko Phi-Phi (450B to 490B, two hours). The boat leaves from the national park jetty at 9am, returning from Ko Phi-Phi at 3.30pm. It also stops at Railay’s Hat Rai Leh West. This boat can also be used for day trips to Ko Phi-Phi. During the high season there’s also a direct boat to Phuket, leaving from the same pier at 3.30pm (450B), and to Ko Lanta at 10.30am (450B).

RAILAY

Krabi’s fairytale limestone crags come to a dramatic climax at Railay (also spelled Rai Leh), the ultimate jungle gym for rock-climbing fanatics. This quiet slice of paradise fills in the sandy gaps between each craggy flourish, and although it’s just around the bend from chaotic tourist hustle in Ao Nang, the atmosphere here is nothing short of laid-back, Rasta-Thai haven. Recent construction has added a slew of five-star digs, but there’s still plenty of time to quietly soak up the sun under dangling daredevils before Railay goes corporate.

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Information

There are now a couple of ATMs in Railay – an easy one is on the path between Hat Rai Leh West and Hat Rai Leh East. Several of the bigger resorts can also change cash and travellers cheques. A few shops have internet for a whopping 3B per minute; connections are usually unreliable, so you may be better off checking your email in Ao Nang or Krabi Town. For minor climbing injuries there’s a small clinic at Railay Bay Resort on Hat Rai Leh West. Check out www.railay.com for more info about the area.

Sights

Railay’s most alluring beach is Hat Rai Leh West. It’s also the best place to watch the sun go down (bring a camera – the sunsets are ethereal). Tastefully designed midrange resorts line a long stretch of golden sand beach and dozens of long-tail boats make pick-ups and drop-offs from here to nearby Ao Nang. The water is perfect for swimming (even at low tide it’s deep enough), and we’d suggest floating on your back, staring up at the cliffs and contemplating life for a while – it’s very Zen.

At the southern end of the beach is the mighty Thaiwand Wall, a sheer limestone cliff offering some of Railay’s most challenging climbing routes ( Click here).

Boats from Krabi arrive at Hat Rai Leh East. The shallow, muddy beach is lined with mangroves and is not really suitable for swimming, but there are plenty of bungalows, bars and facilities onshore. It’s only a short walk (less than five minutes) across the deer neck of Laem Phra Nang to Hat Rai Leh West, so don’t feel you’re trapped on this beach if you’re arriving from Krabi.

Hat Ton Sai is the backpacker retreat and is reached by long-tail (either directly from Ao Nang or from Hat Rai Leh West) or by a sweaty 20-minute scramble over limestone rocks. While the beach here is mediocre, the dozens of cheap bungalow outfits and excellent access to some of the best climbs around keeps it lively with climbers and backpackers. There are occasional Full Moon parties here during the high season.

Near the tip of the peninsula is Hat Tham Phra Nang, a splendid strip of whispering white sand, framed by looming cliffs. If you just want to sunbathe, this is the spot to go – it’s the most beautiful beach around and just a few minutes’ walk from Hat Rai Leh East. The plush Rayavadee resort dominates the eastern end of the beach but the rest of Hat Tham Phra Nang is untouched. A huge cavern punches straight through the cliffs at the western end of the beach, emerging halfway up Thaiwand Wall. Immediately offshore are Happy Island and Ko Rung Nok (Bird Nest Island), which offer some good snorkelling.

At the eastern end of Hat Tham Phra Nang is Tham Phra Nang (Princess Cave), an important shrine for local fishermen. Legend