Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [585]
The Flame Tree (right) at Hat Rai Leh West rents out sea kayaks for 200B per hour, as do many midrange and top-end resorts around Railay. Overnight trips to deserted islands can be arranged with local boat owners but you’ll need to bring your own camping gear and food.
Sleeping & Eating
HAT RAI LEH WEST
Rai Leh West is beautiful and developers know it – you’ll only find midrange and top-end resorts around here. Rates drop by 30% in the low season. You can’t go wrong with any of the resorts’ restaurants.
Sand Sea Resort (0 7562 2170; www.krabisandsea.com; bungalows 1800-6000B; ) Solid, well-appointed concrete bungalows with verandahs line a snaking, foliage-laced pathway. A full buffet breakfast at the hotel restaurant is included; nonguests should stop by at lunch or dinner, as the food is quite good. These are cheapest digs around. Sand Sea is alcohol free.
Railay Bay Resort & Spa (0 7581 9401; www.krabi-railaybay.com; bungalows 3500-19,000B; ) It’s worth staying here for the pool alone. The amoeba-shaped, sparkling blue creation faces onto the best bit of the beach so you can easily switch between salt and fresh water. The campus of charming timber-framed bungalows stretches all the way to Rai Leh East along well manicured grounds. Trips to both the on-site restaurant and spa will not disappoint.
Flame Tree (dishes 150B) Flame Tree has a bit of a monopoly on nightlife in Rai Leh West, so the prices are inflated and the food is mediocre at best, but it’s still a chilled place to relax with your climbing buddies at beer o’clock.
HAT RAI LEH EAST
Often referred to as Sunrise Beach, the ‘beach’ here is riddled with gnarled mangroves and tends to be quite muddy. It’s not the end of the world, as Hat Rai Leh West is just a 10‑minute walk away. The resorts on the hillside above the beach get sea breezes, but down by the water it can feel like a sauna.
Rapala Cabana (08 6957 8096; bungalows 200B) Superbly located deep in the jungle and high in the hills in a bowl of karst cliff, this uber-rustic, Rasta-run place is the cheapest place to crash in Railay.
Anyavee (08 1537 5517; www.anyavee.com; r/bungalows 1500-3000B) Anyavee doesn’t know what it wants to be – some parts of the resort feel backpackery, other parts feel decidedly high-end. The rooms fall somewhere in the middle, sporting modern, comfortable amenities on tiled surfaces.
Diamond Private Resort (0 7562 1729; www.diamondprivate-railay.com; r 1800-3500B; ) Although the name sounds a bit like a strip joint, Diamond Private is a family-friendly resort with a swimming pool high on the hilltop with a deck that sports great views of the bay below. The rooms and bungalows come with TVs, hot showers and minibars, and are set in well-landscaped gardens.
Sunrise Tropical Resort (0 7562 2599; www.sunrisetropical.com; bungalows 3500-5500B; ) Likely the first place you’ll come across after disembarking from the Krabi boat (look for it just beyond the mooring area). Sunrise has stylish Thai villas with neat decor and very swanky bathrooms. Breakfast is included. The restaurant does not serve alcohol.
Rock (dishes 120B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Our favourite lunchtime spot in all of Railay sits up on a small clearing in the karst formaton–filled jungle. The sea views are divine and the large selection of Thai food never gets complaints. Try the refreshing basil smoothies on especially hot days. The 99B do-it-yourself barbecues are quite popular – stop by for more information.
HAT THAM PHRA NANG
Rayavadee (0 7562 0740; www.rayavadee.com; r 30,000-55,000B; ) Yes, you read those prices correctly. But if you have serious baht to burn, we can’t think of a better place. This exclusive colonial-style five-star resort monopolises 10 hectares of stunning beachfront property clad with seven types of luxury bungalows; all are two-storey and fabulously decked out in traditional Thai style. Champagne breakfasts, afternoon tea amid wafting classical music, and romantic sunset dinners are the norm.
HAT TON SAI
Covered from rock to rock in dangling climbers,