Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [587]
Tonsai Village is a patchwork of travel agencies, superettes, restaurants, internet cafes and guesthouses. There’s a Western Union bank and a 24-hour ATM at the southern tip of Ao Ton Sai.
Sights & Activities
The strenuous and sweaty climb to Phi-Phi’s viewpoint is a rewarding short hike. The path up the mountain begins near Phi Phi Casita ( Click here) and wends its way up a steep crag –most people will need to stop for a short break (don’t forget to bring some water), but once you reach the top you’ll be treated to postcard-worthy views of the twin bays, soaring karst formations and quiet Phi-Phi Leh off in the distance. Pinned to a sturdy tree is a small photograph taken from the viewpoint only hours after the tsunami – a graphic reminder of the tragedy that haunts the island’s consciousness.
DIVING
Crystal Andaman water and abundant marine life make the perfect recipe for top-notch scuba. Popular sights include the King Cruiser Wreck, sitting a mere 12m below the surface; Anemone Reef, teeming with hard corals and clownfish; Hin Bida, a submerged pinnacle attracting turtles and large pelagic fish; and Ko Bida Nok, with its signature karst massif luring leopard sharks. Hin Daeng and Hin Muang ( Click here), to the south, are expensive ventures from Ko Phi-Phi – it’s cheaper to link up with a dive crew in Ko Lanta.
All dive shops in Tonsai Village have standardised their pricing – an Open Water certification course costs 12,400B, while the standard two-dive trips cost 2200B. Trips out to Hin Daeng/Hin Muang will set you back 5500B.
* * *
SHE SELLS SEASHELLS
Numerous souvenir shops on Ko Phi-Phi Don sell seashells, which are poached from the surrounding marine national parks. These local shell species are quickly becoming extinct, so please don’t buy shell-related souvenirs.
* * *
Recommended dive operators:
Adventure Club (08 1970 0314, 08 1895 1334; www.divingphi.com) Our favourite diving operation on the island runs an excellent assortment of educational, eco-focused diving, hiking and snorkelling tours. You won’t mind getting up at 6am for the much-loved shark-watching snorkel trips on which you are guaranteed to cavort with at least one curious reef shark. Ask about the top-secret 007 tours – we could tell you, but then we’d have to kill you…
Phi Phi Scuba (0 7561 2665; www.ppscuba.com) One of the largest operators on the island, churning out dive certifications by the boatload. There’s a sociable and professional atmosphere, although nervous newbies might feel as though they aren’t getting enough handholding.
SNORKELLING
Snorkelling around Ko Phi-Phi is equally amazing, especially around Ko Phi-Phi Leh. It is worth shelling out the 800B to 2000B (depending on boat type and trip length) to join a day trip and explore the reefs. Most trips include lunch and take you to a number of spots around the marine park. Any travel agency on the island can arrange snorkelling day trips.
If you’re going at it on your own, most bungalows and resorts rent out a snorkel, mask and fins for 150B to 200B per day. There is good snorkelling along the eastern coast of Ko Nok, near Ao Ton Sai and along the eastern coast of Ko Nai.
ROCK CLIMBING
Yes, there are good limestone cliffs to climb on Ko Phi-Phi, and the view from the top is spectacular. The main climbing areas are Ton Sai Tower, at the western edge of Ao Ton Sai, and Hin Taak, a short long-tail boat ride around the bay. There is a handful of good climbing shops on the island and most places charge around 900B for a half day of climbing or 1600B for a full day, including instruction and gear. Cat’s Climbing Shop (08 1787 5101; www.catsclimbingshop.com), in Tonsai Village, is a French-run operation that gets a thumbs up from tourists. Spider Monkey (08 9728 1608) in Tonsai Village also gets a good report card. Hardcore climbing buffs should head to Railay ( Click here).
Courses
Thai-food fans can take cooking courses at the newly renovated Pum Restaurant & Cooking School (0 1521 8904; www.pumthaifoodchain.com; full day 2500B) in Tonsai