Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [589]
Phi-Phi Long Beach (08 6281 4349; bungalows 500-1000B) Standard-issue bungalows are nothing to write home about, but the price is right (cheap!) and there’s a chill backpacker vibe along the sand.
Beach Resort (0 7561 8267; bungalows 3950-5900B; ) An ever-expanding class act with a good pool and chic bar, this resort swarms with package tourists looking for (and finding) comfort. It’s relatively new, so good service can be off and on, but management seems eager to iron out the kinks.
AO LO BAKAO
Ao Lo Bakao has a beautiful and secluded beach on Phi-Phi’s remote northeastern shore. The resort here arranges boat transfers for guests (there’s a thin dirt trail for hikers). Long-tails from Ao Ton Sai cost 500B (one way).
Phi Phi Island Village (in Phuket 0 7621 5014, in Bangkok 0 2276 6056; www.ppisland.com; bungalows from 6500B; ) This place really is a village unto itself: its whopping 104 bungalows take up much of the beachfront with only a few lonely palms swaying between them. This is the full-service deal with all the trimmings – it’s particularly popular with the Japanese jet set.
HAT LAEM THONG
At the northern end of Ko Nai, Hat Laem Thong features Phi-Phi’s who’s who of glitzy five-star resorts. There’s also a small chow lair settlement of corrugated-metal shacks at the end of the beach. A long-tail charter from Ao Ton Sai costs 600B. The following resorts can also arrange transfers.
Holiday Inn Phi Phi Island (0 7521 1334; www.phiphi-palmbeach.com; bungalows 7500-9000B; ) Amid coconut palm at the southernmost point of the beach, this tastefully decorated resort has large Thai-Malay–style bungalows sitting on 2m-high stilts. On the grounds are tennis courts, a spa, dive centre, restaurant and hilltop bar.
Zeavola (0 7562 7024; www.zeavola.com; bungalows 15,000-37,000B; ) If you have money to burn, let this be your pyre. Gorgeous teak bungalow mansions incorporate traditional Thai style with simple, sleek modern design. Each comes with glass walls on three sides (with remote-controlled bamboo shutters for privacy), beautiful 1940s fixtures, antique furniture, a patio and impeccable service. Some villas have a private pool.
Eating
We hope you’re in the mood for Thai or Italian food, ’cause there’s plenty of it on Ko Phi-Phi. If a shopfront isn’t a travel agency then it’s probably selling food. The local fresh-food market, tucked into the fray of Tonsai Village, is great spot to scout out takeaway meals for pennies.
D’s Books (08 4667 7730; coffee 50-110B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) In the beating heart of Tonsai Village, this classy cafe has amazing coffee drinks and stacks of cheap reading. Good luck finding a seat – the free wi-fi attracts email-aholics from all over the island.
Papaya (dishes 80-180B; lunch & dinner) Near Reggae Bar, Papaya is where to go for perfectly cooked Thai standards.
Tonsai (0 7561 1233; dishes 80-300B; lunch & dinner) The best seafood restaurant on Ao Ton Sai serves a mouth-watering assortment of the day’s catch.
007 Restaurant & Bar (dishes 120-200B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Owned by a talkative Scot named James, 007 features ultramodern chrome tables, red cushion booths and, of course, all the Bond paraphernalia you could want. There’s a big selection of beer (including British favourites) on tap, and food from the motherland is cooked in a sparkling kitchen.
Ciao Bella (08 1894 1246; dishes 150-300B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Italian-run Ciao Bella is a long-time expat and traveller fave serving excellent pizzas and seafood in a romantic location by the sea. Try the chef’s mystery pastas if you’re looking for a little adventure. At night, twinkling candles and stars provide the atmosphere for alfresco dining, while lapping waves provide the soundtrack. Ciao Bella is on the sand in Ao Lo Dalam and has a couple of charming bungalows in the back if you’re looking for accommodation.
Drinking & Entertainment
Phi-Phi gives