Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [603]
On the eastern coast of Ko Libong at Laem Ju Hoi is a large area of mangroves protected by the Botanical Department as the Libong Archipelago Wildlife Reserve (0 7525 1932). The grass-filled sea channels here are one of the dugong’s last habitats, and around 40 of them graze on the sea grass that flourishes in the bay. The nature resorts in Hat Yao ( Click here) and here on Ko Libong offer dugong-spotting tours by sea kayak, led by trained naturalists, for around 1000B. Sea kayaks can also be rented at most resorts for 200B per hour.
If you want to spend the night, Le Dugong Libong Resort (0 7972 7228; www.libongresort.com; bungalows 350-800B) is a neat little budget affair dripping with thatch from its many charming, beachfront bamboo huts – each partly concealed by luxuriant greenery and palms. Indoor-outdoor bathrooms enhance the naturalistic flair. Motorbikes can be rented for 300B per day.
Owned by the same friendly and environmentally conscious people running the nature resort in Hat Yao ( Click here), Libong Nature Beach Bungalow (0 1894 6936; www.trangsea.com; bungalows 600-1000B; ) is set on a lovely grassy garden and surrounded by rubber plantations. There’s a simple restaurant with tasty food and the owners run excellent sea-kayaking tours of the mangroves. The resort is closed in the low season.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Long-tail boats to Ban Ma Phrao on the eastern coast of Ko Libong leave regularly from Hat Yao (per person 70B to 100B) during daylight hours. On Ko Libong, motorcycle taxis run across to the resorts on the western coast for 70B. A chartered long-tail directly to either resort will cost around 1000B each way.
Ko Lao Liang
Two little limestone karst outcroppings – Nong and Pi – make up gorgeous Ko Lao Liang, which technically sits in the Ko Phetra Marine National Park ( Click here). The only place to stay is Laoliang Island (08 4304 4077; www.laoliangisland.com; 3-day/2-night package per person 5500B) and, so far, this place is more popular with Thais than Westerners. Lodging is in luxury beachside tents equipped with mattresses, fans and electricity. There are plenty of activities on offer, including snorkelling through some amazing house reefs, shimmying up the islands’ karst cliffs and sea kayaking across crystal horizons. At night there’s a small bar and the restaurant sometimes puts together seafood barbecues. Package rates include all meals, gear and a few activities are available. Transport to/from Hat Yao is included in the price. A 200-person ferry leaves Hat Yao at 1pm, and departs from the island at noon.
Ko Sukorn
Sukorn means ‘pig’, which is a tad ironic since the island is home to a small Muslim community. Keeping these fisherfolk company are four cars, three dogs (locals don’t like ’em) and hundreds of water buffalo. Ko Sukorn is a place to take in the local culture as well as a few rays. The beaches here are a deep golden colour and, although less flashy than those more popular islands, are more intimate and good for swimming. Clean and friendly little villages are strewn between rubber plantations and rice paddies in the interior, and watermelon fields and coconut palms near the coast.
The best way to see the island is by renting a mountain bike for the day (about 50B) – with few hills, stunning panoramas, lots of shade and plenty of opportunities to meet locals, this will get you right into the slower pace of life here. Covering up is an absolute must when you go off the beach because this is a strongly Muslim island.
SLEEPING
There’s limited electricity on Sukorn so expect power only in the evenings. For serious backpackers, ask around at the Sukorn boat pier for homestay opportunities. Pawadee Guesthouse (0 8988 74756; r 100B) is recommended.
Sukorn Beach Bungalows (0 7520 7707; www.sukorn-island-trang.com;